clutch fluid change
05-05-2008, 07:29 PM
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clutch fluid change
So i want to change my clutch fluid and do the sticky clutch DIY, is there a DIY for the fluid change because i couldnt locate it. If there is can anyone direct me to this? any help would be greatly appreciated. I plan on doing the clutch and brakes at the same time using the ATE blue stuff from hard top guy.
05-06-2008, 06:44 AM
#4
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taken from exviper:
DISCLAIMER: The procedures, methods and products written up here was for my circumstances only. I make no assertions that your results will be the same nor do I claim that this is the best way to do it. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
WARNING! Automotive fluids are NOT good for you. You are advised to wear eye protection and rubber gloves where contact is likely. Also, "Mechanix" gloves will save you some skinned knuckles.
I've noticed the last many months that the clutch fluid was getting darker and darker, so decided this was the year to flush and change it. It's not that hard a deal but a few things you need to keep in mind:
Brake fluid is REALLY bad on paint. It'll eat it away like nothing. Put newspapers all over the work area to cover the car and to sop up any splatters or dribbles.
You'll need to jack up the car (on the left side) so play safe - use a jackstand.
Here are some specific things you'll need:
Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid - you'll need about 300 mL. Never use fluid from a previously opened container. Always start with fresh fluid. An opened container of brake fluid will absorb water from the atmosphere very quickly and should not be used even for later top up.
An 8 mm wrench to loosen the bleed screw.
A 1' piece of tubing to fit over the bleed screw.
An empty pop bottle to collect the old fluid.
A little funnel to pour the fluid into the reservoir (minimizes spillage).
Some rags or paper towels to wipe up spillage.
Something to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir. I used a big syringe with a little tubing on the end.
A second person to assist.
(Disregard the vacuum bleeder kit you see in the pic. It was an experiment to do a one-man bleed that didn't work too well. It could not get all the air out by vacuum so it left too much "play" at the top of the clutch pedal stroke.)
Here are the things you are looking for - the clutch reservoir located to the far left (US cars) near the firewall. Disregard the blue thing. It's the Vortech FMU. Note the newspapers for protection:
Go underneath the car and look up beside the left side of the tranny and you'll see the clutch slave cylinder with its little rubber cap on the bleed screw:
Remove the rubber cap and attach the tubing onto the bleed screw, the other end of the tubing in the pop bottle. Wrench at the ready.
Remove the cap from the reservoir. It's only about a 1/4 turn. This is what you'll see
1. Take your syringe and suck out as much of the fluid from the reservoir as possible. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid and remove again. Repeat only if there is still crud in the reservoir. I did it twice. Fill the reservoir up again.
2. Have assistant sit in the driver's seat such that he/she can comfortably and fully depress the clutch pedal to the floor.
3. Go under the car and "crack" open the bleeder screw. Once it's free, you can turn it by hand till you're done. It only needs about a 1/4 turn. Ask your helper to push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there. You should see fluid come out the tubing.
4. Close the bleeder screw with your fingers.
5. Ask your assistant to use his/her foot or hand to lift the clutch pedal as far up as possible and hold it there. (It will not come back up on its own like a brake pedal will.)
6. Open the bleeder again and ask your helper to push the pedal to the floor, close bleeder, lift pedal.
7. Go check the reservoir and top it up so that the fluid does not get too low or you'll be pulling air into the system.
8. Continue this process till the fluid coming out the tubing is clean and clear and no bubles are showing. If you don't let the level in the reservoir get too low, you should not see bubbles during this procedure.
9. On your last bleeder screw closure, tighten the screw with the wrench only "snug". It's a delicate thread so DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!
10. Lift the pedal back up to the top.
11. Top up the fluid in the reservoir. Put the cap back on and secure it properly. Go give the clutch pedal a few rapid pumps in the upper 2" to 3" of travel (VERY IMPORTANT). Recheck fluid level.
12. Immediately clean up any spilled fluid.
13. Go for a test drive. You'll notice a firmer clutch pedal feel and possibly a slightly different engagement point, especially if your old fluid was badly contaminated.
Dispose of the old fluid in the proper manner.
WARNING! Automotive fluids are NOT good for you. You are advised to wear eye protection and rubber gloves where contact is likely. Also, "Mechanix" gloves will save you some skinned knuckles.
I've noticed the last many months that the clutch fluid was getting darker and darker, so decided this was the year to flush and change it. It's not that hard a deal but a few things you need to keep in mind:
Brake fluid is REALLY bad on paint. It'll eat it away like nothing. Put newspapers all over the work area to cover the car and to sop up any splatters or dribbles.
You'll need to jack up the car (on the left side) so play safe - use a jackstand.
Here are some specific things you'll need:
Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid - you'll need about 300 mL. Never use fluid from a previously opened container. Always start with fresh fluid. An opened container of brake fluid will absorb water from the atmosphere very quickly and should not be used even for later top up.
An 8 mm wrench to loosen the bleed screw.
A 1' piece of tubing to fit over the bleed screw.
An empty pop bottle to collect the old fluid.
A little funnel to pour the fluid into the reservoir (minimizes spillage).
Some rags or paper towels to wipe up spillage.
Something to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir. I used a big syringe with a little tubing on the end.
A second person to assist.
(Disregard the vacuum bleeder kit you see in the pic. It was an experiment to do a one-man bleed that didn't work too well. It could not get all the air out by vacuum so it left too much "play" at the top of the clutch pedal stroke.)
Here are the things you are looking for - the clutch reservoir located to the far left (US cars) near the firewall. Disregard the blue thing. It's the Vortech FMU. Note the newspapers for protection:
Go underneath the car and look up beside the left side of the tranny and you'll see the clutch slave cylinder with its little rubber cap on the bleed screw:
Remove the rubber cap and attach the tubing onto the bleed screw, the other end of the tubing in the pop bottle. Wrench at the ready.
Remove the cap from the reservoir. It's only about a 1/4 turn. This is what you'll see
1. Take your syringe and suck out as much of the fluid from the reservoir as possible. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid and remove again. Repeat only if there is still crud in the reservoir. I did it twice. Fill the reservoir up again.
2. Have assistant sit in the driver's seat such that he/she can comfortably and fully depress the clutch pedal to the floor.
3. Go under the car and "crack" open the bleeder screw. Once it's free, you can turn it by hand till you're done. It only needs about a 1/4 turn. Ask your helper to push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there. You should see fluid come out the tubing.
4. Close the bleeder screw with your fingers.
5. Ask your assistant to use his/her foot or hand to lift the clutch pedal as far up as possible and hold it there. (It will not come back up on its own like a brake pedal will.)
6. Open the bleeder again and ask your helper to push the pedal to the floor, close bleeder, lift pedal.
7. Go check the reservoir and top it up so that the fluid does not get too low or you'll be pulling air into the system.
8. Continue this process till the fluid coming out the tubing is clean and clear and no bubles are showing. If you don't let the level in the reservoir get too low, you should not see bubbles during this procedure.
9. On your last bleeder screw closure, tighten the screw with the wrench only "snug". It's a delicate thread so DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!
10. Lift the pedal back up to the top.
11. Top up the fluid in the reservoir. Put the cap back on and secure it properly. Go give the clutch pedal a few rapid pumps in the upper 2" to 3" of travel (VERY IMPORTANT). Recheck fluid level.
12. Immediately clean up any spilled fluid.
13. Go for a test drive. You'll notice a firmer clutch pedal feel and possibly a slightly different engagement point, especially if your old fluid was badly contaminated.
Dispose of the old fluid in the proper manner.
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