Mr. Francesco

Ever since I removed the CDV from my ap2, my clutch just hasnt felt the same.

The main problem is the engagement. My clutch engages very high. Pretty much if I slightly push the clutch pedal down, thats where it engages. I know the clutch disc itself still has plenty of miles left on her, it doesnt slip and has never been abused. My car only has 7k miles on it right now, and I am the original owner.

I want the pedal to engage in the middle, not at the floor, and not right when you push it down. How can I adjust the pedal, and if I do will it hurt my clutch?

S2KenC

I would try to rebleed the hydralic fluid first before you adjust the clutch pedal. When I had my CDV removed a couple of months ago, my clutch engagement point did not change whatsoever.

Mr. Francesco

Im not sure, we bleeded the crap out of it.

I had a tech help me out, so its not like it wasnt done correctly.

S2KenC

Well...what I'm saying is that if your clutch engagement was good prior to the removal of the CDV, and now its behaving poorly, something went wrong during the removal. The CDV doesn't change your engagement point. In fact, during normal driving, you won't even know the difference. Its only in high RPM shift that you'll notice its working like it should.

Good luck though. Hope you can get your issues resolved.

DX-2000

How did your tech bleed it? Did he remove the two screws on the slave cylinder and turn it slightly to the right and let all the air out. Make sure your using a clear plastic tube on the bleeder screw. This way you can check for air bubbles.

snakeeater

The fact that your engagement point went up instead of down is a mystery. However, CDV was just an orifice in the line to slow down re-actuation movement of slave cylinder. CDV won't affect pedal engagement position, just transient response. But, hyraulic systems are simple once you get air out of brake fluid.

You might try this method of bleeding. Do the Master Cylinder first. Attach short jumper loop of clear platic tubing from MC bleeder valve back over into the MC fluid chamber below fluid level. Then you can open the bleeder valve and leave it open for the next procedure. If there is no bleeder valve, then disconnect clutch line from MC and attach jumper tubing to that fitting. Have someone stroke clutch pedal repeatedly while you watch for air bubbles. THis circulates the same fluid through the MC and gets any trapped air bubbles out. Make sure that the fluid level does not drop below the jumper tube outlet. Once you get MC free of air bubbles, close bleeder valve, remove clear tubing (and reattach clutch line if necessary). Also remember to keep the MC fluid level at proper height during this procedure. If it gets too low it will just suck more air into the system.

Now bleed clutch line at slave cylinder. Attach the clear tubing to the bleeder valve on the SC. Drop other end into clear glass. Have someone press clutch pedal down slowly. Crack open bleeder valve while it is under pressure. When the clutch gets to the floor, have them hold it until you get the bleeder valve closed. Have them release the clutch pedal then go check master cylinder fluid level. Then repeat until no air bubbles come out.

Mr. Francesco

thanks, ill try this out in the next week or so

fin man

When I first removed the CDV, first year, and bled the clutch it did feel different. When I took it for a test drive the engagement point was almost right off the floor, maybe 30%. After a short drive of stop and go it started to engage where it always did, 50-60% from the floor.
Now, with about 10k miles on it the engagement point is about 65-70% from the floor and I also get slipping when shifting in VTEC.

Mr. Francesco

yeah im clueless.

i think im going to just buy the HTG clutch package. im not sure what else to do.