SwansS2K

PLEASE HELP!!!!

Clutch setup = ACT HD PP, Comptech Flywheel, OEM disc

Tonight I was driving home from a work conference. When I was about 10 miles from home I went to change gears. When I did this, the clutch pedal was light for the first 2 inches of movement. The clutch engagement point was MUCH lower than normal. Almost to the ground.

The more I drove, the lower the engagement point moved. Once I got home, the clutch would not engage. The clutch padal has NO resistance. I was barely able to get home. Almost didn't make it.

I don't think it's the clutch itself, because it wasn't slipping at all.

If anyone can provide ANY insight I would appreciate it.
This is a big problem for me since this is my daily driver.

dhayner

Did you look to see if you have low clutch fluid? a leak?

xviper

I think you are using the wrong terminology. By your description, the clutch is not "disengaging". When you push the pedal to the floor, you can't seem to disconnect the power from the engine.
1. You may have a fluid leak, either externally or internally from your master or slave cylinder or somewhere in the line in between.
2. The slave cylinder plunger may have popped off the release fork socket and is no longer mated with it. The plunger is at full extension beyond the fork socket and the fork is doing nothing to actuate the throw out bearing. The release fork may have come loose from it's mounting points.

SwansS2K

Thanks for such a quick response.

I checked the fluid level and the resevoir was empty. I added some fluid to the top of the resevoir and then pumped the clutch a few times. It bubbled up some and took some fluid into the line. I figured if there was a leak that it would pretty much bleed itself.

After getting some fluid into the line, the clutch came back. It's not back to 100% of where it was, but it is definitely back and is driveable. There is still about 1/2"-1" of play in the pedal. Could this just be that I didn't bleed the lines?

I have checked for a leak and have not found anything. I had my small block replaced at 65k miles (blew a plug due to the recalled plugs not being replaced) and now have 99k. Do you think it's possible that the honda tech forgot to refill the clutch fluid? Would I have gotten this far if that was the case?

Any recommendations on what I can do to get rid of the play in the clutch?

Thanks again in advance for any information!!

esoteric

You definitely need to bleed the system if the reservoir was empty!!
I would keep an eye out for a leak, there should have been no real reason to change or empty the fluid when they worked on your motor previously. So unless they thought they would be nice and flush it for you I would assume you have a leak.
The major causes would be as X outlined above.

SwansS2K

Well, while they were in there they had to take the clutch out. In doing so, I had them replace the disc. Wouldn't they then need to drain the system and put in new fluid?

To my knowledge, the slave cylinder is located on the driver side near the rear or back of the front wheel well. I'm guessing this is where I should be looking for a leak.

Would this mean I need to replace the slave cylinder? Or, is this fixable? If it is fixable, what would be involved?

I am pretty good at hands on stuff with the car, but I am not familiar with the slave cylinder or clutch. Could I do this myself?

xviper

The fact that you have gotten some of your clutch function back means that the plunger is OK. No need to go there. Getting a short block and a new clutch disc does not require draining the clutch fluid. It is in its own self contained system. You may still have a leak somewhere in the system.
You can't just top up the fluid in the reservoir. This will not get rid of the air that has most likely infiltrated the system. You must do a full clutch flush and bleed. Go to the FAQs at the top of UTH. There, you will find my "How To" on the clutch bleed. I strongly advise you to do this ASAP. Having a clutch that is not 100% may cause you to grind gears or at the very least work the syncros more that they need to be.

SwansS2K

THANKS FOR ALL OF THE HELP!!!!!

I did the bleed and all is well. I did not see any leaks and am keeping my eyes on the fluid level. Everything is back to the way it was.

Thanks guys!!!

P.S. Sorry for the delay. Work has been kickin my butt and I haven't really had time to login to the boards.

jstar

Hey Swans,
Have you had any other problems with the clutch? I've had a very similar problem (https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...&f=22&t=446447), but when I did the clutch bleed/flush the clutch feel did not come back 100%. I can get the car into gear now and it drives, but it just doesn't feel right. Anyone have any ideas??
Thanks,
-j

kjtar

Is there a way to adjust the clutch? I test drove a car over the weekend, and it was hard for me to determine the friction point, think it was up higher in the pedal travel than I would have thought or previously been used to. But then again, it's been a few years since I consistently drove a stick shift, so maybe I'm just on my "re-learning" curve.
Anyone in the Tulsa, OK area who could private me regarding a good indy shop for "our" cars?
Thanks!