JR0130

Clutch in my 2003 s2000 went out and need to replace. Shops around Bay Area charging $1200-1800. Any forum write up was done on S2000 clutch replacement or any suggestions on which repair manual to use. I bought Exedy clutch kit and would like to try to tackle replacing clutch on my own, any suggestions write ip on this process? Much appreciated

99SH

There are a few good DIY posts on s2ki on how to replace the clutch, search and you'll get there. Look at the FAQ Sticky
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/548...d-maintenance/

Also get the Helms manual for this and any future job.

Also, if you got the Exedy OEM replacement clutch don't use the supplied TO bearing as it's junk. Get the OEM Honda one. The Exedy bearing will fail on you pretty quickly having to drop the trans again to replace.

Here's a few threads to get you going and to familiarize yourself with some pics
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/779...h-install-diy/
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/828...-pics-on-pg-2/

tbpom1003

I don't know what level of job have you done, but this is how I did

What you need
10mm(12pt), 12mm, 14mm, 17mm(6pt and 12pt), 19mm, Allen socket
1/2" and 3/8" extensions, various size
Flex head ratchet
6 Jack stand - 4 for supporting car chassis, 1 for under the subframe (just in case), 1 for tranny
Best if you have another hand

1. remove shifter

2. remove air filter and box - serpentine belt - upper alternator bolt - upper starter bolt - (if you have lowered car) 14mm suspension mount nuts

3. jack up the car, and disconnect steering shaft (MUST!!!!), remove cat - drive shaft - clutch slave cylinder

4. If you have stock exhaust manifold, you need to remove this and heat shield, unless simply remove oil filter

5. remove engine-tranny case bolt before drop the subframe; two 14mm bolt bottom most, one 17mm driver side, two 17mm passenger side

6. support and drop the subframe; For AP2, subframe bolts are all 19mm. Remove middle bolts, and lower each bolts for 75mm.

7. remove top two 17mm bolts under the hood, NOT from the bottom. You will need 3/8" flex head ratchet with extension bar. I never get these bolts from the bottom because extensions are way too long, and they flex (even with 1/2") so they distribute the torque to side by side motion, aka not working efficiently.
and remove driver side 17mm bolts from the bottom, with swivel socket and short extension

8. remove tranny mount bolt, and put the rear of tranny on a jack stand.

9. wiggle the tranny, and if you feel like shaft is almost out, support tranny with jack, and get them out.


First time I did, it took me more than 12 hours with lots of frustration. but once you do it, it won't be that hard next time.
Give lots of time on it, at least three days, and do everything slow and double check if you are doing right.

FYI, you don't need to reinstall upper starter bolt and heat shield

Good luck!!

afzan

return that junk Exedy if you can and get Honda OEM (which is made by FCC, NOT Exedy!)

the Exedy "OEM" friction disc and bearings are junk, here's a recent example: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/110...nny-fail-help/

B serious

^^Yes, the dealer clutch is better.

The dealer clutch is better because the springs in the disk last longer. I don't believe there's any difference or problems with the aftermarket Exedy pressure plates. I would opt for the Honda genuine throw out bearing and I would also replace the throw out bearing guide sleeve.

DEFINITELY get Honda high temp urea grease. That by itself is more important than you think.

I ordered everything from a dealer because I track my car. I ordered the AP2 clutch assembly. I wasn't sure if Honda sold the outdated and updated clutch disks. So I just spec'd out everything for a 04 model year.

If you're just street driving it, I really doubt you'll have problems with the Exedy aftermarket. The only issue I could see is having some clutch buzz later.

Shops in the Chicago area charge between $300-800 for the job. I got mine done twice for $300...and once for free....but I did most of the work. I've done/helped on a couple installs on other people's cars.

I wouldn't want to do it without a lift. But if someone wanted $1200...I'd definitely manage it at home on jack stands lol.

CoolGuy094

I'd also recommend returning the Exedy products. You can at a minimum replace the friction disc and throwout bearing with genuine Honda components while keeping your same pressure plate and flywheel. I would still recommend replacing your pressure plate with a genuine Honda one and having your flywheel resurfaced at a local shop, but you CAN survive without replacing either of those. Its just if you're going to be in there, you might as well do as much as you can.

The Exedy clutch components are known to fail, re: the thread that afzan linked to. The friction discs fail at the spring housings. The pressure plates fail at the spring fingers. The throwout bearings fail at the seams. I've seen all of those Exedy components fail in multiple threads on S2Ki. They are low-quality replacement items and should not be used.

I've attached some pages from the Honda service manual that I use when doing a clutch swap. The notes and order make sense to me, but apologies if they don't translate well to anyone else, lol.

Billman250

If it's your first s2k clutch, don't waste all your hard work to have a poor job at the end. Return the exedy, and get an oem disc and bearings.

2002AP1S2k

Hey, like everyone said don't use the exedy clutch, its garbage. Check my thread to see the pictures of my exedy clutch (i didn't install it, it was already there), I would bite the bullet and just buy the Honda OEM clutch. I just spent 1400$ on a clutch job. I wanted to do it myself, but I found a local mechanic who has done it for me. Ive got 12 month 12k mile warranty on it. Good luck.

Cyrax

If one is doing a clutch job on jack stands, how high up does the car have to be? Specifically, the distance from the pinch-welds to the ground. 12" to 16", perhaps? I have had to keep pushing back the date to do my clutch as life keeps getting in my way.

tbpom1003

I have harbor freight 2ton jack, which has max height of 19", but on the stand it's about 18". under 16" is definitely too low to work on it