Silver9k

ok well I got everything greased back up...inners and outers...I removed about all the old grease using about a full roll of paper towels if not more...

the outer grease is supposed to be dark...when I opened the new grease tube up, I was surprised to find that it was black...so I guessed that the dark inner one wasn't really that bad...but I removed everything anyway, I applied one full tube of the Honda CV grease to each joint, but when I close up the outer joint, I couldn't figure out how to use the stupid Honda clamp...they are a different style and they will not get tight at all...so I'm going to take the one I have back and get two new ones from an autoparts store...should have it all back together monday as I'm waiting on two new bolts from honda for the axle-diff (I stripped one on the way out...well not the bolt, but the nut...and I just order 2 nuts and bolts)

one tube worth of grease should be perfect right? it seemed just right.

I'll let you guys know how it is when I get it back together...I hope this fixes it...if not then I'll have to look at the diff...

RACER

Good deal dude When it comes to wheel bearings and CV joints, it is best to pack as much grease as possible.

I haven't looked to closely at the CV boot bands on our cars yet, but I do know there are various styles of boot bands. There are at least two different styles that I know of that require two totaly different types of tools. There is one style that I have seen that does not require a special tool as it has notches that locks the band when tightened with a pair of pliers.

Like I said, I have not looked closely at the CV boot bands on this car, so I can't give you any good info. My guess is, if they won't tighten, require a special tool.

Chances are, the bands that the auto parts store carries may require a special tool as well, even if they are a universal type band. If this is the case, your best bet is to borrow the required special tool from a buddy of yours.

Silver9k

ok...well everything is back together...sadly, the noise is still there

it seems like it may be more supressed at times then before. I've also noticed that this noise will not happen at higher speeds like above 13-14...it is most prominent around 7-11...I will be changing the diff and tranny fluid soon...maybe that will fix it? I don't know...

Billman250

I'm still sticking with this

hopefully some fluid will help it.....

Silver9k

I hope...

now, do I need like a special pump to get the diff fluid into the diff, with the fill plug on back of the diff

Billman250

It is very difficult without the right tool, esp with the thickness of LE607. Use a big fluid syringe, found at most auto parts places. I'd show you a pic, but pics are still screwed up.

TIMMA456

I have the same problem with my car after i was messing around in a parking lot. i had my friend listen and it sounds like the noise is coming from the trans and it also happens if i have the clutch pushed in. i changed my rear diff fluid last week and it did nothing.

Billman250

No, you THINK you have the same problem. There's no way to tell until both problems are found in both cars. One at a time

Silver9k

Ya, I have no idea where it is coming from...I thought I knew...but...and yes mine does it when in nuetral or with the clutch pressed in...but if it is in gear and the clutch is out it does not do it at all...

I'm also wondering if it has something to do with the clutch?
But I'm going to change my diff and tranny fluids anyway so...I'll wait till after that.

Also, any suggestions on Tranny fluid, GM Syncromesh, Redline? I've used MTF but I do track the car...so I'd like something a little better

Billman250

I use MTF on the track and like it.

Some have reported better shifting with GM syncromesh FRICTION MODIFIED.

Others use redline and like it as well.