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Lemme throw in a tip here. I would unbolt the ABS sensors from the knuckles (10mm) and remove them. If they are rusted and are difficult to remove (the usual case), you can remove the bolt and turn them a little, to allow more slack on the wire. You will seriously stretch, or possibly break, the ABS wire if left connected.
I would highly recommend getting one exactly like this. A universal two jaw will be flimsy and difficult to work with. this one is made by Rimac. Notice the longer, flat hooks, not found on typical pullers for clearance reasons.
Although designed for tie rod ends, it makes the ultimate s2k lower ball joint tool. S2k lower ball joint config and tie rod end config are identical. Bejay auto has stuff like this, maybe sears...
no it doesn't...surprisingly...neither does a floor jack
and thanks billman...I'll look for that...we don't have Bejay auto out here in CA, or at least I've never heard of them...but I will look for that exact part...
Originally Posted by Silver9k,May 10 2005, 04:06 AM
no it doesn't...surprisingly...neither does a floor jack
and thanks billman...I'll look for that...we don't have Bejay auto out here in CA, or at least I've never heard of them...but I will look for that exact part...
the pic is really helpful
I replaced my axles this weekend using a hammer. two small taps on the control arm and they released.
If you use a hammer, do not pound on the unprotected stud end or you can ruin the joint. What I do, with mixed success, is to use two hammers on the sides of the arm where the taper passes through. I place one hammer on one side of the arm, and whack the other side with the other. You're basically trying to distort the arm enough to pop the tapered stud out. In this application, bigger is better, for the hammer that is.
NOTE - Don't try this on aluminum arms, like those on the NSX or Ford GT!
The 2-arm puller is the better way to go, but this has worked for me when I've not had a tool, or had an ill-fitting tool.
Even though the hammer sounds crude, it will work. The lower ball on most s2k's is not to tight. You can even use a large brass punch if your aim is a little off
the silicone compound the honda dealer uses as the "DC111" comes in a rather large tube and costs $56...
I know that I will never use all that grease, and that is the smallest size they have...is there anything else I can use as a lubricant, any other silicone based substance? I was expecting to spend 10-15 on the stuff...
05-09-2005, 06:54 PM
