bgoetz

After a season of not getting to the track I think I may try to get back out next year. I have a few things I need to do this winter, one of which is tossing on a baffled oil pan. While I was in there I thought I would check the rod bearings. The car runs well, but I have had a bit of lead in my UOA and it has 145k miles, so I figure I should take a peak. Could someone tell me how to go about this the proper way? Just drop the windage tray and check for play or do I need to pull the caps and actually inspect? Obviously if there is an issue I will replace the bearings, but I am not crazy about loosening the caps if it isn't needed.

Also, how much more work would the banjo bolts be? It is an 01 and I have been a big advocate of NOT doing them just because, but if I am that far should I just do it?

Slowcrash_101

The upgraded bolts have two jets vs one jet for the old style ones. It's a fail-safe and you shouldn't have a problem as long as all the jets work. Yes you can wiggle the rod and check for play but that only works when the damage is already done. Plastigauge is the only way to check rod clearance with the engine in the car. It's not hard to do. Lock the crank smear a little strip about as thick as spaghetti, and tighten the rod bolts to specs, and compare the Plastigauge to the legend on the package. Use the green Plastigauge it's like $4 for a tube. The 4 letter codes on the crank webbing and the markings on the rods tell you what bearings to use should you need to replace any, and I'm more than happy to help you interpret it. Though it's not too complicated.

bgoetz

Great! So it sounds like all that I need is Plastigauge and a good torque wrench. Should I plan on likely having to swap out bearings? I don't mind doing what I need to, I figure with the pan dropped I am most of the way there, so replacing bearings if needed just seems like a good way to prolong the life of the engine. Or maybe it is one of those things where I risk causing more problems than I might solve?

Yeah with respect to the banjo bolts, yeah I have never been a fan. I have read way too many threads of major issues caused during the process of swapping. Plus correct me if I am wrong, but I still would have a good amount of work to do beyond just dropping the pan?

Car Analogy

Its kinda like surgery. In this case preventative surgery. There is always a risk, and how much care the surgeon takes, and how much experience they have, can make all the difference.

It would be disheartening to cause the very thing you are trying to prevent. That certainly could happen.

But if you are careful, you should be ok. Some things that could get you in trouble:

Use wrong size bearings

Contamination

Insufficient lube

Bearings inserted improperly

Scuffing crank surface (for example, with rod studs)

Improper rod cap torque

Mixing up rod caps

Putting rod caps on backwards

Hopefully others will chime in to add to this list, so you can be better prepared.

bgoetz

Thanks! I am a fairly careful, mechanical individual, but fully recognize I could make mistakes, so yes that list is very helpful, keep it coming!

Slowcrash_101

Yep bearings get installed dry on the bore side, lubed on the journal side. A thick oil like for example the non-synthetic Lucas oil stabilizer makes great assembly lube. Obviously you want the journals dry when you plastigauge them. Only change bearings if they're marginal, or slightly out of spec, if they're within spec even if they have a tiny bit of scuffing it's fine because the bearing and journal have "matched".

If you post the 4 number/letter code on the crank webbing and the con rods I can tell you what bearings you have and which ones you need. It's pretty straightforward though. If the clearance is loose try with a new bearing of the same color, if it's still loose go one thicker. If it's still not right you might as well trash the crank, but if you haven't had any problems I doubt it'll be an issue and you can just reuse the same color code bearing.

Charper732

if you loosen any rod bolts the bolts MUST BE REPLACED. Any bolt that has a specified angle torque needs to be replaced when loosend as the threads stretch.

FZXtreme

To chime in on the banjo bolt replacement.
I did mine this past spring when I installed my baffled oil pan. I would recommend swapping them for the peace of mind and since you're already in there. It wasn't hard to swap the bolts, only cylinder 1 was a pain due to the oil pickup. I would recommend getting a flexible socket extender, I struggled with regular tool for an hour before I caved and bought one and I swapped it out in a minute. For reference: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00285A-.../dp/B002GQ3LFM
If there's anything else you'd like to know feel free to ask.

Slowcrash_101

Not these bolts they can be re used just like the head bolts. Don't underestimate the oem fasteners.