check engine light- electric air pump
#1
check engine light- electric air pump
had my check engine light pop on, took it in and found out that it was the electric air pump, cleared the code (po060 or something) and checked all the connections, seems ok. i believe the electric air pump has something to do with the emissions controls??
anyone else had this problem, the mechanics said that it might just be a bug or something, no biggies.
anyone else had this problem, the mechanics said that it might just be a bug or something, no biggies.
#2
Actually the DTC code of concern here is PO410 or PO411. Your dealer jumped the SCS service signal with the Honda PGM tester which gave a code PO 60....so it could be either; PO410 is "Air Pump Circuit Malfunction" and PO411 is "Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow".
The electric air pump is part of the "Pulsed Secondary Air Injection System" (i.e. emission control). When the engine is cold and first started, the air pump pumps fresh air to the exhaust ports. The amount of air is regulated by an air control valve which is controlled by the ECM. The system does not work for more then 60 seconds at a time (key point). When fresh air reacts with any unburned exhaust gasses, the exhaust gas temperatures rise. This rise promotes faster warm up and hence faster warm up of the catalytic converter....resulting in very clean emissions during start up. When the air injection system is not operating, the air control solenoid closes the air control valve to prevent any exhaust gasses from flowing back into the system.
Your mistake.....you revved it up when it was cold, or for more then a minute; and fooled the system.....twice!
The car has a "Two driving cycle detection method". If the ECM detects a fault it stores it in memory. If the problem occurs again it sets a "hard code" i.e. check engine light.
.....and yes I have seen this before! Be careful with unloaded rev-ups as we all like to do. The last two PM's I got on this issue were related to folks with new exhausts which wanted to see how they sounded....over and over. Did you get a new exhaust recently.
Utah
The electric air pump is part of the "Pulsed Secondary Air Injection System" (i.e. emission control). When the engine is cold and first started, the air pump pumps fresh air to the exhaust ports. The amount of air is regulated by an air control valve which is controlled by the ECM. The system does not work for more then 60 seconds at a time (key point). When fresh air reacts with any unburned exhaust gasses, the exhaust gas temperatures rise. This rise promotes faster warm up and hence faster warm up of the catalytic converter....resulting in very clean emissions during start up. When the air injection system is not operating, the air control solenoid closes the air control valve to prevent any exhaust gasses from flowing back into the system.
Your mistake.....you revved it up when it was cold, or for more then a minute; and fooled the system.....twice!
The car has a "Two driving cycle detection method". If the ECM detects a fault it stores it in memory. If the problem occurs again it sets a "hard code" i.e. check engine light.
.....and yes I have seen this before! Be careful with unloaded rev-ups as we all like to do. The last two PM's I got on this issue were related to folks with new exhausts which wanted to see how they sounded....over and over. Did you get a new exhaust recently.
Utah
#4
nope, bog stock.
hmmm, cant remember if i revved it, i doubt it cause i normally open the garage door, start it up, pull out of the drive for my 5 min drive to work, and voila, the light came on.
the mechanics cleared teh code though and it hasnt happened since
hmmm, cant remember if i revved it, i doubt it cause i normally open the garage door, start it up, pull out of the drive for my 5 min drive to work, and voila, the light came on.
the mechanics cleared teh code though and it hasnt happened since
#6
Originally posted by calc
Utah, what rpm are you talking about? To VTEC, or less?
cal
Utah, what rpm are you talking about? To VTEC, or less?
cal
Also you might make a note that a "soft code" (i.e. stored in the ECU once) will clear out of the ECU after 40 starts where the OBD-II does not detect the fault again. If within the 40 starts your OBD-II senses a repeat anamolly the car will set a "hard code" and the check engine light will stay on.
Utah
#7
Thanks for the info, Utah. I just got a code P0411 cleared up today - I'd had the car in for TSBs and recalls, and when I got it back the check-engine light was on. After downloading the code, they found a loose vacuum line - part of the secondary air system I presume? They reconnected the hose, reset the ECU, and the light has stayed off.
Sounds like there shouldn't be any risk of damage to the engine from driving it this way for a few miles, right? Do you know if the ECU changes any settings while this code is active?
John
Sounds like there shouldn't be any risk of damage to the engine from driving it this way for a few miles, right? Do you know if the ECU changes any settings while this code is active?
John
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#8
Can the engine codes be reset from home are do I have to visit the dealer to have the codes reset with some special tool. I refrain from visiting the dealer at all cost.
Thanks in advance for your input
Thanks in advance for your input
#9
I have a related problem. I have been to and from the dealership 7 times and they are trying to track down a similar problem on my car. I am getting the same code. P0411 my car is 100% stock no intake, they have replaced the air control valve and ecu and it always comes on about 2 days after I get it back from the dealer.
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