check engine light?
#21
Originally posted by Dante(suzuka)
Could it be something that only occurs at less than 40 deg. F ?
Could it be something that only occurs at less than 40 deg. F ?
I would wager that if you were to run the car till it's to operating temps and the engine bay temps are also warm (to warm up the valves and solenoids) and then reset the "BACK UP" ECU fuse, then re-started the car, you will most likely NOT get another CEL until the car is exposed to the cold again (when things get sticky and the sensors detect incorrect flow). Having it at the dealer where the car is already warmed up and also because they work on it inside a warm environment may not ever help them to find what's going on.
I think if they just replaced the critical valves and solenoids that allow the air to be injected and recirculated to where it needs to go, this will likely fix the issue. I say issue, because as it stands, it's not quite a problem yet.
I plan to lubricate my air pump when I get a chance to quiet it down. This is the first year that my car has done this. Perhaps it took 3 years for the air pump to get a bit "dry"?
#22
Former Sponsor
The secondary air injection system is a set of emissions control devices that only work on start-up when the engine is cold. So the 410 and 411 CELs have no bearing on the normal operation of the engine. Whatever is the source of these codes will do no harm to the engine.
In my experience, Honda dealers are totally incompetent to find and fix CEL problems, and the training provided them by Honda on these problems must be unbelievably bad.
I've had the 410 and 411 codes and three dealers could not identify the problem, and they have far better equipment than we do. I fixed it myself -- turns it it was a vacuum hose with a small split. Only incompotent dealers could not have found this problem, and I wasted my time and money believing a dealer could help. Tracing vacuum leaks takes time and patience, and generally is a process of trial and error. Most dealers don't want to be bothered with such trivia, because it just doesn't pay.
My latest CEL problems are 300, 301, 302, 303, and 304, all related to cylinder misfires. Again, two Honda dealers could not identify and fix the problem. Again, I'll probably have to fix the problem myself. I've narrowed it down to a fuel pressure regulator problem which, again, may be the result of a vacuum leak.
Sometimes we search for complicated solutions when the problem is quite simple. You can put your faith in many places, but Honda dealers are not one of them.
In my experience, Honda dealers are totally incompetent to find and fix CEL problems, and the training provided them by Honda on these problems must be unbelievably bad.
I've had the 410 and 411 codes and three dealers could not identify the problem, and they have far better equipment than we do. I fixed it myself -- turns it it was a vacuum hose with a small split. Only incompotent dealers could not have found this problem, and I wasted my time and money believing a dealer could help. Tracing vacuum leaks takes time and patience, and generally is a process of trial and error. Most dealers don't want to be bothered with such trivia, because it just doesn't pay.
My latest CEL problems are 300, 301, 302, 303, and 304, all related to cylinder misfires. Again, two Honda dealers could not identify and fix the problem. Again, I'll probably have to fix the problem myself. I've narrowed it down to a fuel pressure regulator problem which, again, may be the result of a vacuum leak.
Sometimes we search for complicated solutions when the problem is quite simple. You can put your faith in many places, but Honda dealers are not one of them.
#23
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HONDA! This is getting stupid. The fourth time I took it in(last Monday) they were on the tech help line with corporate Honda. Checked all the hoses again, electrical lines, ran a bunch of tests, still no idea. So they cleaned all the grounds and said that would probably fix it. Today I thought 'gee, I ought to call Honda and tell them I've not had anymore problems in a week', I guess I jinxed myself. I hopped in my car from work and the stupid light came on yet again. So this time I took it directly too the dealership(for the fifth time). Now I'm driving a Hyundai Sonata and they'll be checking it out tomorrow. I still think it's the cold weather so hopefully they can find it tomorrow. If they can't find anything else, I'll kindly ask(read:strongly suggest) them to replace every part of the system. I doubt they'd do it, but it's worth asking. Then I'll go to the district manager and explain my problem to him, and ask for options(read:new car or reimbursment).
Rick, how did you trace all the vaccum lines? And how do you know whats what? Do I need the haynes manual for all that?
Rick, how did you trace all the vaccum lines? And how do you know whats what? Do I need the haynes manual for all that?
#26
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Yeah, sorry I never got back about all this. They wound up installing a new ECU on the car and I havn't had a problem since. They never really figured out exactly what the issue was, but as a last resort they installed the new ECU. Seems to have taken care of it, and I've had a couple cold starts since then.
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