Gernby

Since we are getting scientific (nit picky) about it, make sure you drain the tranny oil while it is hot (ie go for a hard drive right before draining it), then let it drain for a long time. This will allow more of the old oil to drain out. I do the same for all my engine and diff oil changes, and get pretty close to the "overhaul" figure.

honda606

Excellent advice gernby and something that I do religiously as well. In fact, I'm doing my first oil change since switching over to synthetic and I've had the engine draining since last night around midnight. Overkill I'm sure but figured why not since I wasn't going to need the car this morning. I did take a sample to do a UOA and I'll post those results in the coming weeks.

Thanks for the feedback xviper. I'll try 1.75 qts. and report back.

buzilanga

Well i have some bad news, I changed the tranny oil to spanking brand new honda mtf. When I took the old one out, it came kinda black the car has about 48K on it, and I think it never had a oil change. Did the same with the diff, came out black too. Still waiting for the motor oil filter so I can change that and change the coolant.
I went for a test drive with the car. I still have the same prob with it. When i go from 2 to 3, I feel like when I put the stick in gear, something hits it like to push it out, but it stays in. A friend of mine told me its my synchro is messed. Btu one thing I noticed, I can hear the release bearing making a sound way in the back. So tomorow I think i'm going to order OEM, clutch, pressure plate and release bearing to see if that sound goes away. If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know. Thx

Ricardo

JDMpress

Don't know if you know about Google's calculator function. It can convert all sorts of units...

Just put in "<whatever you want converted> to <whatever unit you want>". For example, "200 cc to quart", "123in to cm", etc.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=...200+cc+to+quart

Jean

Gernby

I suggest doing another tranny oil change, just to flush out the rest of the 48K mile oil. You should also consider using GM Synchromesh Friction Modified.

xviper

A MY'00 with 48K on it, having had no fluid changes (except engine oil) may not be such a good thing if this is true. BTW, an '00 is the only model of car that does NOT have a long life engine coolant. It's time to get it changed.
A release bearing should be making the noise just in front of and beside you and not "way in the back". If it's in the back, then you need to direct your attention to the diff or the CVs.
If it feels like it doesn't want to go into a gear (3rd), this is just sycros. A bad syncro will cause you to grind. Something else is making it resist going into gear.

Gernby

If 3rd gear is grinding or notchy, then I would suspect a synchro, but if it is hard to select, I would suspect a bent shift fork. I either case, I would try better oils before rebuilding it. Some synchros work better with some oils, and worse with others. I've also heard of shift forks straightening themselves back out slowly with carefull use.

buzilanga

I hear the release bearing while I'm idleling and I push the clutch in and out. And when I drive I hear the click in the rear. And its a MY02 with a lot of miles on it.

xviper

Without being there to hear what you hear, I would be reluctant to say for sure that it is your throw out bearing - really hard to say. It could be just your clutch disc noise when it starts and stops spinning. Most cars do this. Does it resemble a tin can with gravel in it being tumbled?
And you say "when I drive", do you really mean as you are driving or do you mean whenever you take off. This makes a difference. If it's ticking while you are driving, it could mean anything from a rock stuck in your tire, to a bad wheel bearing, to a bad CV joint, to a chipped diff gear tooth, to a loose wheel weight. If it ticks as you move off, this could be a hub nut in need of torquing. Which is it?

Road Rage

Gernby and xviper are correct about hot drains being better, especially on fluid that has been in there for 15k miles. One reason is that adulterants held in suspension will condense and redeposit themselves on the metal surfaces as the tranny cools, whereas they will be "in the fluid" when hot. Since I have only put 500 miles on the Red Line MTL, I just drained it cool.

One thing I also do is to use a large level I have that has one side with a magnetic "face". This allows me to put it on the main underbody frame reinforcement, so I can adjust the 4 jack stands s the car is level. Then I have confidence my fill level will be right on.

Like Gernby, I overfill a tad. As I detect the 2nd quart in the pump starting to "thin", I pump faster to build up a "wave" of fluid, then quickly replace the fill plug so the return wave will not just spill out.

So with all the rain and the storms and the cooler temps, I did my S2000 today with GM Synchcromesh FM, mostly on Gernby's recommendation (now the pressure's on, Gernby ). Took 30 minutes start to finish (I do nto agonize over the last few drops during the drain part of the swap), and now it is raining so hard that my garage queen is, literally, "all lubed up with nowhere to go".

I am looking forward to seeing how this fluid pans out, and will of course offer my comments after several drive cycles. If it feels as good or better than RL MTL, then it will be my fluid of choice and recommendation, since it is not red and is stealthy.