changing clutch fluid
06-23-2011, 05:08 AM
#2
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Any DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid is fine, really. Since you need to know when the new fluid is completely bled through the system, a lot of people buy ATE Super Blue DOT4 because of its blue color. That way, you definitely know when it's through the system when it's a rich blue color.
06-23-2011, 05:41 AM
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Any DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid is fine, really. Since you need to know when the new fluid is completely bled through the system, a lot of people buy ATE Super Blue DOT4 because of its blue color. That way, you definitely know when it's through the system when it's a rich blue color.
06-23-2011, 07:50 AM
#4
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to replace:
Method 1: Suck the master dry with a turkey baster. squirt it into a container. keep the container under the hood close to the master. Put your finger over the baster so no fluid drips. One drip will eat through the paint and cause rust that will never stop
Method 2: put a tiny cardboard box or bowl close to the master. Using paper towels, let them suck out the fluid, and put them in the box or bowl.
After emptying, there will be some black sludge in the bottom and around the side. using small pieces of paper towel, wipe out the master until it is spotless.
fill it back up with brake fluid. YOU CAN CALL IT QUITS here if you like. This method will ensure zero air enters the system.
If you want a more thorough flush, go under the car and open the bleeder. leave the 8mm wrench on the bleeder. immediately come back under the hood and watch the master. it will drop at a moderate pace. Keep it full, run half a pint or so through it. Once you stop pouring, leave the master full and run under the car quickly to tighten the bleeder. dont worry you have about 20-30 seconds depending on temps
re-check master level. proper level is 3/8" from the top. any more will allow fluid to overflow when you put the cap back on.
In my experience, ate super blue stays cleaner a lot longer in the clutch master.
IF YOU DO spill any brake fluid, you have a few minutes to save your paint. do NOT touch it with a rag. Simply hose it with the garden hose. Water instantly cuts brake fluid and washes it away completely.
If you dont have a garden hose, take a pail of water and dump it right under the area where the clutch master is. You WILL NOT harm the car, at all.
Method 1: Suck the master dry with a turkey baster. squirt it into a container. keep the container under the hood close to the master. Put your finger over the baster so no fluid drips. One drip will eat through the paint and cause rust that will never stop
Method 2: put a tiny cardboard box or bowl close to the master. Using paper towels, let them suck out the fluid, and put them in the box or bowl.
After emptying, there will be some black sludge in the bottom and around the side. using small pieces of paper towel, wipe out the master until it is spotless.
fill it back up with brake fluid. YOU CAN CALL IT QUITS here if you like. This method will ensure zero air enters the system.
If you want a more thorough flush, go under the car and open the bleeder. leave the 8mm wrench on the bleeder. immediately come back under the hood and watch the master. it will drop at a moderate pace. Keep it full, run half a pint or so through it. Once you stop pouring, leave the master full and run under the car quickly to tighten the bleeder. dont worry you have about 20-30 seconds depending on temps
re-check master level. proper level is 3/8" from the top. any more will allow fluid to overflow when you put the cap back on.
In my experience, ate super blue stays cleaner a lot longer in the clutch master.
IF YOU DO spill any brake fluid, you have a few minutes to save your paint. do NOT touch it with a rag. Simply hose it with the garden hose. Water instantly cuts brake fluid and washes it away completely.
If you dont have a garden hose, take a pail of water and dump it right under the area where the clutch master is. You WILL NOT harm the car, at all.
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RolanTHUNDER (08-17-2018)
06-23-2011, 10:59 AM
#5
the legend nails it again!
to replace:
Method 1: Suck the master dry with a turkey baster. squirt it into a container. keep the container under the hood close to the master. Put your finger over the baster so no fluid drips. One drip will eat through the paint and cause rust that will never stop
Method 2: put a tiny cardboard box or bowl close to the master. Using paper towels, let them suck out the fluid, and put them in the box or bowl.
After emptying, there will be some black sludge in the bottom and around the side. using small pieces of paper towel, wipe out the master until it is spotless.
fill it back up with brake fluid. YOU CAN CALL IT QUITS here if you like. This method will ensure zero air enters the system.
If you want a more thorough flush, go under the car and open the bleeder. leave the 8mm wrench on the bleeder. immediately come back under the hood and watch the master. it will drop at a moderate pace. Keep it full, run half a pint or so through it. Once you stop pouring, leave the master full and run under the car quickly to tighten the bleeder. dont worry you have about 20-30 seconds depending on temps
re-check master level. proper level is 3/8" from the top. any more will allow fluid to overflow when you put the cap back on.
In my experience, ate super blue stays cleaner a lot longer in the clutch master.
IF YOU DO spill any brake fluid, you have a few minutes to save your paint. do NOT touch it with a rag. Simply hose it with the garden hose. Water instantly cuts brake fluid and washes it away completely.
If you dont have a garden hose, take a pail of water and dump it right under the area where the clutch master is. You WILL NOT harm the car, at all.
Method 1: Suck the master dry with a turkey baster. squirt it into a container. keep the container under the hood close to the master. Put your finger over the baster so no fluid drips. One drip will eat through the paint and cause rust that will never stop
Method 2: put a tiny cardboard box or bowl close to the master. Using paper towels, let them suck out the fluid, and put them in the box or bowl.
After emptying, there will be some black sludge in the bottom and around the side. using small pieces of paper towel, wipe out the master until it is spotless.
fill it back up with brake fluid. YOU CAN CALL IT QUITS here if you like. This method will ensure zero air enters the system.
If you want a more thorough flush, go under the car and open the bleeder. leave the 8mm wrench on the bleeder. immediately come back under the hood and watch the master. it will drop at a moderate pace. Keep it full, run half a pint or so through it. Once you stop pouring, leave the master full and run under the car quickly to tighten the bleeder. dont worry you have about 20-30 seconds depending on temps
re-check master level. proper level is 3/8" from the top. any more will allow fluid to overflow when you put the cap back on.
In my experience, ate super blue stays cleaner a lot longer in the clutch master.
IF YOU DO spill any brake fluid, you have a few minutes to save your paint. do NOT touch it with a rag. Simply hose it with the garden hose. Water instantly cuts brake fluid and washes it away completely.
If you dont have a garden hose, take a pail of water and dump it right under the area where the clutch master is. You WILL NOT harm the car, at all.
06-23-2011, 04:38 PM
#6
Registered User
I absolutely agree with Billman250.
Since fluid is soooo cheap,I baster out the clutch & brake fluid every oil chnage....usually 4-5k.Sometimes if I have more than one car to so,I'll do all 4 while I'm hot & dirty just to have it done.
For normal street use,I run Prestone Dot 4 fluid.Wally's world has it
\rlr
carolina
Since fluid is soooo cheap,I baster out the clutch & brake fluid every oil chnage....usually 4-5k.Sometimes if I have more than one car to so,I'll do all 4 while I'm hot & dirty just to have it done.
For normal street use,I run Prestone Dot 4 fluid.Wally's world has it
\rlr
carolina
06-23-2011, 05:26 PM
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Thanks Billman250 for your how to. I really dont do a whole not of maint on my car other than changing the oil,lol. However after reading a few how too for changing the clutch fluid, I figure I didnt sound very difficult to do, So I did it myself today. First I would like to say that before My , I really didnt think much about changing clutch fluids ever in any of my other cars in the past, didnt realize the importance of it I guess, untill now. lol. Anyways, I bought my 02 Suzuka blue S last April with 39000 km on it, First thing I did was change the engine oil, rear diff,tranny fluid and air filter. All except for the engine oil had been original fluids including the air filter witch by the way was completetly black... Never really thought about the clutch/brake fluid until this spring when I actualy really took the time to see what the fluid looked like. You call all imagine how BLACK the fluid was, it was really bad. So, I bought myself some prestone dot 4 brake fluid and went at it, I did excactly what Billman said minus the bleeding, Had to flush it out three times before I was satisfied. My clutch now feels different, not in a bad way though. I really cant explain it other than the clutch feels more '' springy '' then before. Took the car out and all worked beutifully. This will be done every year now. While I was at it, I also changed out the brake fluid which was also original fluid in the car. And now that I was experienced, I decided to change out my clutch/brake fluid in my 01 accord coupe which by the wat has 235,0000 kms on it. The old fluid in both cars were really bad with a really bad smell, but all is good now. The only thing left to change now are the original plugs which now have 52,000 kms on them.
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06-24-2011, 04:04 AM
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