ryang

General rule of thumb is you should flush/bleed your brakes at least once a year, shortly after the rainy season. For beginners to bleeding brakes I'd recommend alternating between ATE Superblue and ATE Typ 200 brake fluid. The different color makes it easy to tell when all the old fluid is flushed out.

You can do the complete system with half a can. Since brake fluid has a short shelf life once the can's opened you can do it with a friend at the same time. Even with a pressure bleeder you really need another person anyway to pump the brake.

Honda specs DOT 3 fluid. Superblue/Typ 200 is DOT 4 but should be fine. That's what I use.

Bret

I agree. I've turned warped rotors that were causing a braking vibration. At first the problem went away, but the vibration was back in short order. So, if you have a vibration, I wouldn't bet that turning the rotors is going to solve the problem. I read that a cause of warped rotors can be over tightening of the lug nuts. I've religiously tightened the lug nuts on my cars to the specifications in the manuals and have not had a warped rotor since.

Gernby

I quit turning rotors years ago, since the rotor just deteriorated quicker after turning them. I found that I could get new rotors pretty cheap, and get much better results.

KennyS2K

re: rateds2k's post "Rears and fronts are done the same."

please, let me add:

do not attempt to push the rear pistons back in with a C clamp. the rear brakes are also your parking brake and the piston is threaded and must be threaded back in. there are tools that you can put on a rachet to do this. I haven't done my s2k rears yet, but some caliper pistons can be threaded back in with a 3/8 drive without a socket, just the drive.

the tool that you can buy from any good auto parts supplier is a six faced cube that fits a 3/8 drive and offers several configurations for different caliper piston faces.

if anyone needs to know the tool p/n, let me know. a great addition to any tool set.

ken

turbo_pwr

ken p/n would be cool, but a picture would be that much bettter.

KennyS2K

k-d tools p/n 3163. k-d is carried by most auto part shops and they probably have a web site with a photo there.

it is a one inch cube with five different shape and configured pin faces. each side also has a square hole for recieving a 3/8 drive.

sorry, no digital camera, still using kodak film! cannot even figure out how to add a smiley face. (but i can do a brake job!)

ken

KennyS2K

just went to google and the first hit was toolsource.com.

type in 3163, and then click on brake piston tool and you can see it.

if i were more 'puter savvy, i could have posted it.

lists there for $10, but i recall paying a lot less in an auto parts store.

Ken

Pinky

Just stop into Milford some weekend............we will get you all swapped out. We can even do rotors if need be. I will just be sure to get both kinds of impact hammers.

KennyS2K

p.s. if the rotors have no major defect other than slight wear patterns, and are of sufficient thickness, (minimum allowance value is stamped/embossed onto rotor) i would leave them alone. use the brakes gently if possible until the new pads wear and mate/seat to the rotor surface. the pads are the softer of the two and will mate to the contour (however slight) of the rotor.

if you do replace the rotors, use quality rotors, naturally. the quality and consistency of some after-market steel will let you know that they are cheaply made. Quality rotors need not be the most costly either. tapping on the phillips head screwdriver and also on the center of the rotor with a soft faced mallet will usually loosen them up without stripping the heads.

and lastly, make sure that if it is your first brake job, that you pump the brakes up before you drive away. i will never forget the first time that i changed pads and just drove off.

baldy74

Is there anything you need to do to make sure you don't damage the ABS? I've never done a brake job on a car with ABS, so not at all familiar with the "parts" involved and what to look out for. Or is there not anything to worry about. I just read another post where someone affected their ABS when replacing a bearing (I wouldn't even try something like this). Something to do with the wheel sensors. Where exactly are these, and again, do I need to worry about them. Thanks in advand, guys.