S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Changing Brake Fluid

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Old 07-20-2004, 06:38 PM
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Default Changing Brake Fluid

I am doing my first brake fluid change in preparation for a track day this saturday. I had a couple questions. On most FF cars, you start with the rears. I read on a previous post that with the S2000 you start with the fronts. Someone quoted this from the s2000 manual. If so, which one FD, FP, RD, RP? I know the steps for bleeding:

1. suck out from master cylinder
2. fill master cylinder with new fluid
3. pump brakes and fill cup
4. continue until you see new fuild
5. repeat for each caliper why keeping eye on the fluid level in master cylinder

what order should i do this in?

Anything else i should be aware of? Also, do I need any special tools for the pistons when i change my brake pads? Thanks for the help!

Is there a copy of a s2000 manual online? The mechanic manual, not owner's.
Old 07-20-2004, 06:57 PM
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The bleeding order on this car is: DF, PF, PR, DR.

You'll need a C clamp to retract the front pistons and a special tool to retract the rear pistons. Have a look at the excellent DIY brake pad installation thread in the library https://www.s2ki.com/home/index.php?option=...w&id=51&Itemid= for more good info.

Not aware of any manual available online but there's more than enough info on this site to enable you to do this job
Old 07-20-2004, 07:31 PM
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thanks Ludedude...thats what i was looking for. came through for me again
Old 07-20-2004, 11:25 PM
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Glad to help and glad you got the pads on time. You're gonna have a blast at the track
Old 07-21-2004, 07:03 AM
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The square drive on a 3/8" ratchet fits in the center of the rear brake piston. This will allow you to turn the piston clockwise to retract it. Good luck.
Old 07-21-2004, 05:15 PM
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When you suck out the master, you'll see a small cavity in the front of the resovior that wont come out. You'll need to open the RF bleeder to purge this area. Another tip...use ATE super blue brake fluid. It's race friendly, and BLUE so you can see when your all flushed out
Old 07-21-2004, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by billman250,Jul 21 2004, 08:15 PM
When you suck out the master, you'll see a small cavity in the front of the resovior that wont come out. You'll need to open the RF bleeder to purge this area. Another tip...use ATE super blue brake fluid. It's race friendly, and BLUE so you can see when your all flushed out
ATE SuperBlue is what I used. I changed the pads, brake fluid, and clutch fluid. It all went smoothly. I am pretty much ready for my track weekend. Just need to pack clothes, extra oil/fluids, etc...

Thanks for the help!
Old 07-21-2004, 08:39 PM
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Once you've had track, you'll never go back
Old 07-22-2004, 05:24 AM
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don't suck out the fluid from the master cylinder. it can introduce air into the lines if you suck the fluid too low. buy a $35 hand vacuum pump from harbor freight and suck out the brake fluid out of each bleeder and as the level goes down, close off the bleeder and put fresh fluid into the master cylinder.
Old 07-22-2004, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Ludedude,Jul 20 2004, 06:57 PM
The bleeding order on this car is: DF, PF, PR, DR.

You'll need a C clamp to retract the front pistons and a special tool to retract the rear pistons. Have a look at the excellent DIY brake pad installation thread in the library https://www.s2ki.com/home/index.php?option=...w&id=51&Itemid= for more good info.

Not aware of any manual available online but there's more than enough info on this site to enable you to do this job
Hey Lude,

If the procedure is to go from the closest to the farthest (which I believe it is on the S), then you should go:

DF
PF
DR
PR

....wouldn't that stand to reason. The line to the farthest corner should be the Passenger's Rear?



AND


Where can I get a self-bleeder device? And I don't mean a knife for my wrists! I typically have help when I do a brake/clutch fluid change, however I have to work on a couple cars soon and will not be able to rely on a buddy to "pump" the pedal. Is there a device I can use to do it all myself, that doesn't require that I swap the actual bleeder screw (like the speed-bleeders)?

Thanx all,
Hockey


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