Changed to Redline 5W-20 for my AP2
#81
Registered User
^
good point.
during your 1,500 miles did you hit redline?
if so, how often?
perhaps 20w is fine if you drive under vtec, but not fine if you drive above vtec often.
good point.
during your 1,500 miles did you hit redline?
if so, how often?
perhaps 20w is fine if you drive under vtec, but not fine if you drive above vtec often.
#82
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
I've VTEC'ed the hell out of it, plus some. My rev limit has even been raised to 8500 using my FlashPro, and I've bounced the rev limitter LOTS while tuning. It has been a truly brutal 1300 miles.
#84
Thanks for sharing that report. That is an odd report, lots of wear metals in that oil. I would say the wear metals are much higher than universal averages that we've seen for this engine. The oil actually sheared down quite a bit to a 20 weight oil (if it started out as a 30 weight), it is much thinner than the 20 weight Redline you are currently using. Lots of moly in the oil suggests it is still related to the break in fluid. I don't know of any over the counter oil that uses that level of Moly additive, perhaps Chevron oil might come close but still not that high ?. It might be Honda motor oil, who knows. You have a bit of fuel dilution, something you might see during the break in process but it should be done by 10k. The fuel dilution could have caused the oil to thin as well.
Looks like it was a good time to get that oil out of there. Looking forward to the next analysis.
Looks like it was a good time to get that oil out of there. Looking forward to the next analysis.
#86
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
I bought this car from a Honda dealer with 6600 miles on it, and the oil appeared to be new. There was also an oil change reminder sticker on the windshield saying when the oil needed to be changed again. I changed to Redline 5W-20 about 4K miles later.
My daily driving consists of a 10 mile commute each way, with about 4 miles of that being at 75 MPH on the highway. I also did LOTS of street tuning on that oil using my FlashPro. During the tuning, I may have run very rich, which I assume might be a cause for the fuel dillution.
My daily driving consists of a 10 mile commute each way, with about 4 miles of that being at 75 MPH on the highway. I also did LOTS of street tuning on that oil using my FlashPro. During the tuning, I may have run very rich, which I assume might be a cause for the fuel dillution.
#87
yeah the street tuning could be the answer to the fuel detection. Hopefully she got a good drain this time around and the break-in metals won't affect the readings on your next oil analysis as that could really mess with your head, I know it would with me , lol. The numbers may still get skewed and Redline has a tendancy to clean out old residue and particles that cling inside the engine. I think you should expect to see wear metal numbers trending downward on the next oil change, the outright levels might still be skewed a bit.
I wonder if they used a 5w20 Honda oil on the last oil change by mistake, as Honda oil has elevated levels of moly additive and it would correspond with the thin viscosity reading.
I wonder if they used a 5w20 Honda oil on the last oil change by mistake, as Honda oil has elevated levels of moly additive and it would correspond with the thin viscosity reading.
#88
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JFUSION Posted on Feb 11 2010, 05:39 PM
If they didn't they used a pretty lousy 30 weight, shearing down to 8.04 cSt. in only 4k miles.
I wonder if they used a 5w20 Honda oil on the last oil change by mistake,
#89
Former Moderator
Can't wait to see my UOA's to compare when I get home.
People will always say "oh the oil turned black real fast" after switching to redline or amsoil. It means it's doing it's job of cleaning what the other oil left behind.
About the oil pump working harder theory, I think he might be partly right but I'm not 100% sure. I am 100% sure that a pump does work harder if there is less restriction on the inlet side of the pump and a lighter oil may actually do that but I would guess that it's very miniscule.
"Oil pump displacement at 6000 rpm 61.7 us quarts a minute" I'm guessing with thinner oil the pump would be pumping more and in the pump world that means the pump is working harder.
People will always say "oh the oil turned black real fast" after switching to redline or amsoil. It means it's doing it's job of cleaning what the other oil left behind.
About the oil pump working harder theory, I think he might be partly right but I'm not 100% sure. I am 100% sure that a pump does work harder if there is less restriction on the inlet side of the pump and a lighter oil may actually do that but I would guess that it's very miniscule.
"Oil pump displacement at 6000 rpm 61.7 us quarts a minute" I'm guessing with thinner oil the pump would be pumping more and in the pump world that means the pump is working harder.
#90
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Centrifugal pumps do what you say: more flow = more HP needed.
(up to a point)
Thicker fluid to pump will increase the load but might lower the flow, they could even eachother out, under certain circumstances I guess.
Engine oil pumps are positive displacement pumps like gear pumps or gerotor pumps.
There is no inlet pressure as the pump has to suck the oil out of the sump.
You could say there is negative pressure (a bit).
Thinner oil will be sucked in easier.
Thinner oil will be pressed out easier too.
Less power needed.
No doubt.
(up to a point)
Thicker fluid to pump will increase the load but might lower the flow, they could even eachother out, under certain circumstances I guess.
Engine oil pumps are positive displacement pumps like gear pumps or gerotor pumps.
There is no inlet pressure as the pump has to suck the oil out of the sump.
You could say there is negative pressure (a bit).
Thinner oil will be sucked in easier.
Thinner oil will be pressed out easier too.
Less power needed.
No doubt.