Changed Cat. and Getting O2 Sensor CEL...
#1
Thread Starter
Changed Cat. and Getting O2 Sensor CEL...
I changed out my cat. converter and the primary o2 sensor, now I'm getting a CEL on the secondary 02 Sensor in the cat conv. This sucks as I now have to go under the car again if it doesn't go away. The CEL comes on about 10 minutes after driving, I can clear it but it has returned every time , usually about 10 minutes and during steady state highway driving conditions. If the 02 sensor is bad wouldn't it light up the CEL as soon as you start the car ?. Does this mean my 02 sensor is dead ?. I did a search but it sounds like my CEL comes on differently than others. The car runs like absolute mint, perfectly flawless other than the light on the dash, it doesn't drive any differently with the CEL on either. The factory secondary sensor has about 55k miles on it. Thanks for any advice.
#4
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by CKit,Jan 23 2010, 06:47 PM
Secondary sensor CEL doesn't affect drivability.
What CEL is it? I've seen people purchase the wrong sensor and put a 2' sensor in the 1' sensor position.
What CEL is it? I've seen people purchase the wrong sensor and put a 2' sensor in the 1' sensor position.
#6
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jan 24 2010, 07:57 AM
The heater element is dead in the sensor. Anti foulers wont fix that. Shop for a new sensor to turn the light off.
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#8
Registered User
take it easy with the newer o2 sensor, they are very sensitive, lots of people break them by not handling it properly.
i think the code for heater circuit malfunction is 41, i have the same on my old accord, don't get those universal sensor because it's not going to fix it(bosch pigtail and clip on)
i think the code for heater circuit malfunction is 41, i have the same on my old accord, don't get those universal sensor because it's not going to fix it(bosch pigtail and clip on)
#10
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Contact / ignition should be OFF.
Just for fun:
Measure the resistance between sensor pin #3 and #4.
It should be between 12-14.3 Ohm @ 20C (68F)
Its a square connector, pin #3 & #4 are both opposite of the retainer clip.
You can check it too on the new one.
For more fun:
Check for NO continuity (= endless resistance) between the sensor itself (the metal) and both pin #3 and pin #4.
To finish it off:
Check for battery 12V on cable pin #3 and #4 with the igntion ON.
They didn't specify what is +
Its fuse 6 / 15A (might be different in US cars).
Oh well..
Just for fun:
Measure the resistance between sensor pin #3 and #4.
It should be between 12-14.3 Ohm @ 20C (68F)
Its a square connector, pin #3 & #4 are both opposite of the retainer clip.
You can check it too on the new one.
For more fun:
Check for NO continuity (= endless resistance) between the sensor itself (the metal) and both pin #3 and pin #4.
To finish it off:
Check for battery 12V on cable pin #3 and #4 with the igntion ON.
They didn't specify what is +
Its fuse 6 / 15A (might be different in US cars).
Oh well..