CEL ran into some weird problem, new problems
#11
Funny I have this same problem... All the same CELs... and my battery gets drained and the car dies. I've taken off the alternator and had it tested by Autozone they said it was ok. So then I bought a new battery thinking it fix at least one CEL. Nope car died again this morning... any help? Maybe they tested my alternator incorrectly? If I start up my car and unhook the negative from the car it dies. keep in mind I have all the same CELs listed as above. ANY help would be great...do I need a new alternator? I got a new battery.
#12
Honda has a TSB for air pump replacement and air pump relay replacement for your air pump code. As for your O2 sensor codes its kinda odd how both went at the same time, it could be wiring issue somewhere or the sensors may acutally be bad.
#13
hey boost, do you have an intake installed? there is a solenoid that is moved when changing intakes.
slows2k pointed this out. i couldnt see the problem cause mine basically fell to the bottom and was being held on by the wiring. lucky enough the only thing wrong was the vacuum line was cut and the shield of the wiring was gone. no wires were cut.
i believe this set off the o2 sensor CEL because that solenoid's fuse is shared with the o2 sensor fuse. when the solenoid became dislodged from its position, the fuse blew, once this happened it triggered all the CEL's at once..
slows2k pointed this out. i couldnt see the problem cause mine basically fell to the bottom and was being held on by the wiring. lucky enough the only thing wrong was the vacuum line was cut and the shield of the wiring was gone. no wires were cut.
i believe this set off the o2 sensor CEL because that solenoid's fuse is shared with the o2 sensor fuse. when the solenoid became dislodged from its position, the fuse blew, once this happened it triggered all the CEL's at once..
#14
Originally Posted by TreyDM,May 13 2008, 07:56 AM
Honda has a TSB for air pump replacement and air pump relay replacement for your air pump code.
#16
Ok so I put this thread and the "Alternator" thread together and it makes sense BUT I'm still at work til 3:30pm. Going to run out and test it later but I'll need a jump with the battery dead also. Bought a 80 dollar battery for nothing guys. *bleep*
#17
OK so I checked the alternator fuse and it was still ok..??? I also checked the wires from the intake vacuum solenoid & it was cut by the belts. I pulled the wries apart so they wouldn't touch. The alternator doesn't seem to be charging the battery. When I pull off the negative the car dies. The codes I got were... I do have an intake on the car and for the injection flow I reversed the vacuum wires and it seems ok.
P1298 - Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering
P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater (Bank Sen#2)
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow
That was what Autozone pulled up.
Please any more help ???? Fuse is ok on alternator and Autozone tested it ok?.?.?
P1298 - Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering
P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater (Bank Sen#2)
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow
That was what Autozone pulled up.
Please any more help ???? Fuse is ok on alternator and Autozone tested it ok?.?.?
#18
Former Moderator
Holy shit.
There is a short blowing the fuses causing all the DTC's. Since you have a intake the #1 cause of all of these problems is the wiring has been cut by the drive belt because of the solenoid that has been moved.
If you came to my shop this would have cost you 90$
There is a short blowing the fuses causing all the DTC's. Since you have a intake the #1 cause of all of these problems is the wiring has been cut by the drive belt because of the solenoid that has been moved.
If you came to my shop this would have cost you 90$
#19
Originally Posted by Slows2k,May 13 2008, 04:15 PM
Holy shit.
There is a short blowing the fuses causing all the DTC's. Since you have a intake the #1 cause of all of these problems is the wiring has been cut by the drive belt because of the solenoid that has been moved.
If you came to my shop this would have cost you 90$
There is a short blowing the fuses causing all the DTC's. Since you have a intake the #1 cause of all of these problems is the wiring has been cut by the drive belt because of the solenoid that has been moved.
If you came to my shop this would have cost you 90$
#20
okay so i hit the worse today, but all is fixed...thanks for all your help slows2k, if it wasnt for your help, id still be stranded...
(P1298 Electrical Load Detector Circuit High Input) this code basically tells me that theres more juice being used then allotted from the batter/alternator. because of the blown #6 fuse, im assuming it creates a draw of charge from somewhere that shouldnt be drawn.
today while driving, my car began to sputter and eventually died seconds later. a helpful hand from a fellow s2k owner (thank you mister in the laguna blue) helped me kick start the car and i was able to drive a couple hundred feet into the closest plaza. while i was waiting for my friends to show up with jumper cables i did a little snooping around. i fixed the torn wires previous to this but did not replace the fuse.
i had time to kill so i decided to check that fuse out. lo and behold its blown and there isnt much i could do about it being stranded in a shopping center(non-car related of course). i was looking at the under hood fuse box when i noticed that there was spare fuses and luck had it, there was a 15A spare fuse. i immediately switched them out and waited for my buddies to show up.
eventually they did and we jump started the car and everything seems fine. No CEL's, no sign of any problems(knock on wood).
lesson learned. boost, before you do anything make sure you replace that fuse. also, do not ghettofy the wiring with that air pump solenoid. cut strip, solder, and shrinkwrap that thing. you definitely dont want to go thru this again...
(P1298 Electrical Load Detector Circuit High Input) this code basically tells me that theres more juice being used then allotted from the batter/alternator. because of the blown #6 fuse, im assuming it creates a draw of charge from somewhere that shouldnt be drawn.
today while driving, my car began to sputter and eventually died seconds later. a helpful hand from a fellow s2k owner (thank you mister in the laguna blue) helped me kick start the car and i was able to drive a couple hundred feet into the closest plaza. while i was waiting for my friends to show up with jumper cables i did a little snooping around. i fixed the torn wires previous to this but did not replace the fuse.
i had time to kill so i decided to check that fuse out. lo and behold its blown and there isnt much i could do about it being stranded in a shopping center(non-car related of course). i was looking at the under hood fuse box when i noticed that there was spare fuses and luck had it, there was a 15A spare fuse. i immediately switched them out and waited for my buddies to show up.
eventually they did and we jump started the car and everything seems fine. No CEL's, no sign of any problems(knock on wood).
lesson learned. boost, before you do anything make sure you replace that fuse. also, do not ghettofy the wiring with that air pump solenoid. cut strip, solder, and shrinkwrap that thing. you definitely dont want to go thru this again...