CEL: P0113 1 - 3 -BAROMETRIC PRESSURE (BARO) SENSOR
#1
CEL: P0113 1 - 3 -BAROMETRIC PRESSURE (BARO) SENSOR
Hi Guys,
Just need some advice or help in regards to my CEL popping on.
I scanned my car and the code which popped up is: P0113 1 - 3 - BAROMETRIC PRESSURE (BARO) SENSOR.
Here are a few symptoms that I've noticed.
- Car seems to have difficulties getting air inside.
- My revs drop in neutral to about 100 then back to 800-900 rpm then down again.
- Revs take a long time to go up passed 6000rpm+.
I have just recently changed my MAP sensor to the Honda OEM one, but my CEL light still pops on.
It is a bone stock MY01 with an K&N filter, if this helps.
What do I need to change/do?
Thanks for your help guys,
Just need some advice or help in regards to my CEL popping on.
I scanned my car and the code which popped up is: P0113 1 - 3 - BAROMETRIC PRESSURE (BARO) SENSOR.
Here are a few symptoms that I've noticed.
- Car seems to have difficulties getting air inside.
- My revs drop in neutral to about 100 then back to 800-900 rpm then down again.
- Revs take a long time to go up passed 6000rpm+.
I have just recently changed my MAP sensor to the Honda OEM one, but my CEL light still pops on.
It is a bone stock MY01 with an K&N filter, if this helps.
What do I need to change/do?
Thanks for your help guys,
#2
Registered User
Quoted from ( justanswer.com)
\\ That code P1131 means that the oxygen sensor is indicating lean and the PCM is compensating for this. It can be a faulty oxygen sensor is the voltage is staying low. The other usual cause is a small vacuum leak. You should check the PCV hose and vacuum lines. I also recommend listening for a hiss at idle and try spraying some carb cleaner around the intake and vacuum hoses while listening for a change in engine rpm. If you notice a change I suspect a leak. Also if the scan tool you used to pull the codes can read pids or live data monitor that oxygen sensor voltage as well as the long and short term fuel trim percentages.//
\\ That code P1131 means that the oxygen sensor is indicating lean and the PCM is compensating for this. It can be a faulty oxygen sensor is the voltage is staying low. The other usual cause is a small vacuum leak. You should check the PCV hose and vacuum lines. I also recommend listening for a hiss at idle and try spraying some carb cleaner around the intake and vacuum hoses while listening for a change in engine rpm. If you notice a change I suspect a leak. Also if the scan tool you used to pull the codes can read pids or live data monitor that oxygen sensor voltage as well as the long and short term fuel trim percentages.//
#4
*Update*
So I've done what you said by spraying some carby cleaner around the intake and vacuum hoses and noticed that the revs did change, they were more stable than before so I'm guessing there is a leak.
I also noticed that after spraying the carby cleaner, my engine light now turns on quicker than usual.
Before it would take about 10-15 minutes of driving before the CEL popped on, now its almost instantly when my car is turned on.
I'm considering replacing the o2 sensors, do you think this would help?
I've also read some posts in regards to the CEL and BARO sensor, it says to reset the ECU as part of diagnostics... should I give that a shot?
So I've done what you said by spraying some carby cleaner around the intake and vacuum hoses and noticed that the revs did change, they were more stable than before so I'm guessing there is a leak.
I also noticed that after spraying the carby cleaner, my engine light now turns on quicker than usual.
Before it would take about 10-15 minutes of driving before the CEL popped on, now its almost instantly when my car is turned on.
I'm considering replacing the o2 sensors, do you think this would help?
I've also read some posts in regards to the CEL and BARO sensor, it says to reset the ECU as part of diagnostics... should I give that a shot?
#5
*Update*
So I've done what you said by spraying some carby cleaner around the intake and vacuum hoses and noticed that the revs did change, they were more stable than before so I'm guessing there is a leak.
I'm considering replacing the o2 sensors, do you think this would help?
I've also read some posts in regards to the CEL and BARO sensor, it says to reset the ECU as part of diagnostics... should I give that a shot?
So I've done what you said by spraying some carby cleaner around the intake and vacuum hoses and noticed that the revs did change, they were more stable than before so I'm guessing there is a leak.
I'm considering replacing the o2 sensors, do you think this would help?
I've also read some posts in regards to the CEL and BARO sensor, it says to reset the ECU as part of diagnostics... should I give that a shot?
Bad idea and a waste of money to get new O2 sensor. U obviously found a leak if ur RPMs changed when u sprayed the carb cleaner around the intake manifold and vacuum lines. Now just take the little extra time to find the leak and fix it. Resetting the ECU will do nothing. The MIL might go out for a while but since there is a leak it will just come back later.
#6
Cool, I'll give that a shot.
How about replacing my ECU?
Do you think that will help? Seeing that the code does come up with BARO Atmospheric sensor which is located in the ECU.
How about replacing my ECU?
Do you think that will help? Seeing that the code does come up with BARO Atmospheric sensor which is located in the ECU.
#7
Registered User
Replacing the ECU is not a good idea (could be money wasted). Keep researching and eliminating the vacuum and IM leaks. Once the leaks are gone, the ECU will have to relearn the engine (few days of DD). The O2 Sensors can be removed and cleaned, then reinstalled. Many times a Dealership will change them out without cleaning up the old ones. Most of the time, the old ones are good. Just need to be wire brushed off and reinstalled.
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#8
Replacing the ECU is not a good idea (could be money wasted). Keep researching and eliminating the vacuum and IM leaks. Once the leaks are gone, the ECU will have to relearn the engine (few days of DD). The O2 Sensors can be removed and cleaned, then reinstalled. Many times a Dealership will change them out without cleaning up the old ones. Most of the time, the old ones are good. Just need to be wire brushed off and reinstalled.
To the OP, u are taking this way out of proportion. Its just a simple leak that just needs to be repaired. No replacing the ECU or 02 sensors. Like EagleDon said, after u fix the problem just a few days of DD to reset the parameters of the adaptive learning and a quick check of the scanner to check for stored codes and ur done.
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