Cheese and Onion

I wanted to carry out the clutch delay valve removal on my '05 so I followed Billmans write up except for the critical 'dental pick tool' part. Big mistake as 4 hours later I still couldn't remove the spring clip. I eventually had to take the slave cylinder to an engineering outfit and have them remove it.

During the process I removed the wrong part from the slave cylinder (the pushrod/spring/insert from underneath the rubber boot) and although it all appeared to go back together ok I simply can't bleed the thing.
I've been trying for 5 hours non-stop and I can't build any clutch pressure. Once I noticed that the rubber slave cylinder boot filled with oil, surely not good.

I've now been on this for two straight days (it should take 60-90mins).
Anyone offer any help please???

camuman

get a used slave from a ap1 00-02 and install that. or get another 04-05 slave and remove the correct part. i have no idea how to rebuild the slave or if it can be done.

sucks though look at the picture billman has and verify again you have it back together right. also, gravity bleed the system, SO MUCH EASIER!

07RioS2k

A Napa auto parts pic set would have removed the ring in 2 seconds..

Are you sure the ball on the end of the slave cylinder aligned properly when installing it back in?

ou818

New slave cylinder is like $80.

SgtB

With the slave unbolted, and a drain hose hooked up, hold the cylinder in your right hand and use your left hand to work the bleed wrench. The trick is to only crack the bleeder screw right after you start pushing the piston in. You also need to pump it without cracking the screw a few times. You'll hear bubbles boiling out of the reservoir up top. This is the only way I've ever been able to bleed mine. The threads leak air too much to hold a prime.

p.s.: lots of paper towels.

Cheese and Onion

Thanks to all above.
3 days work and 250 paper towels has finally sorted it.
A new slave was out of the question, $550NZ here ($350ishUS?).

The slave needed refitting before to stop all piston movement, followed by a combination of gravity bleeding, pedal pump bleeding and clutch fork back bleeding.

Plus.......adjustment of the master cylinder piston and clutch pedal switch to remove excess play (big difference).

The result?

Incredible. No play and a buttery smooth, lightening fast shift, it was already good but now it's unbelievable.

This took a lot of perseverence, plenty of advice (thankyou), rolls of paper towels and the ruination of a set of clothes due to brake fluid staining but it was more than worth it.

Another fine job courtesy of S2K.....

terahertz

napa auto parts pick set took me 6 hours lol

SilverS2kF22C1

LOL.... I tried for an hour and all I did was make a mess of the spring seat area on my clutch slave. Even had another guy try with no luck... Said enough is enough and order an AP1 and installing tonight.

Bleeding wasn't all that bad on my set-up. One guy running the pedal, another making sure it was topped off, me running the bleeder and shouting out what to do. You can do it with two people though. I passed 4 top offs to the resiovoir to bleed the system. Come to find out the guy running the pedal thought it was soft so he kept saying it was not done. I forgot to mention the pedal is fairly light, much lighter then the pedal in his '00 FI Corvette, we had put a pretty stout clutch and PP in the car last winter.

Cheese you might be confused on the part, Honda stock (in the USA) the part costs just shy of 80bux, I found a genuine honda part online from various vendors for 55bux... Google "genuine honda parts" and you will get a handful. They even provide the exploded view on most to make it easy.

Boofster

I don't use picks anymore. Done 10+ cars now.

The new method is to drill the smallest hole possible on the side facing the transmission, just under the rubber cap ridge and then push out the snap ring from the outside with a pick or paper clip. Takes a few seconds.

You want to make the hole perpendicular to the cylinder and straight towards the snap ring. Spin the ring with a pick so the opening is facing where you are drilling so you don't damage it and make sure to go slow and stop right when you break through the wall to not damage the middle peg.

Something like this:

Cheese and Onion

I had an engineering firm pull my spring clip out in the end. Must have been easy for them because they did it for free. I reckon it's virtually impossible without the correct tool.

Not confused about the part, just very expensive in New Zealand.
We pay nearly $30US for an oem oil filter and $45US for a quart of Honda MTF.

No reason for it either.