NebraskaS2k

I've spent the summer chasing CEL and took it into the shop where they tightened the cam bolts when checking the valves. They also reported that the CEL (0325) probably won't be cleared until the catalytic converter is replaced since the knock sensor was replaced also. The cost of an OEM is about $800, so what have you done when faced with this situation?

devildust

Why not just get a test pipe?

MM3Kwolik

The cat has nothing to do with a knock sensor code. Take your money and run from that shop. If they "replaced" the knock sensor for you and you still have that code, chances are they did not use an OEM sensor from Honda which is the ONLY acceptable part for the car. All the aftermarket sensors that are listed to work don't......

Also, why in the world would they tighten the cam bolts when checking the valves? That is the dumbest thing I've ever heard and could cause serious issues for you. Unless they broke them all loose first and then torqued them down, but even that makes absolutely zero sense. But just adding additional torque to torque that was already applied many heat cycles earlier is a very bad idea and could very possibly strip out or have stripped out multiple cam tower bolts in the head.

Find someone local to you that actually knows what the hell they're doing and have them replace the knock sensor with an OEM sensor FROM HONDA and you should be good to go.

CoolGuy094

What is the CEL code you are getting now? Have Autozone or someone pull it for you again to make sure its not a new code since the last time you got it pulled. Then let us know what the code is and we can help you to solve it.

Reckon

Agree with Jordan...and you should only have to replace the cat if the elements within have come loose.

P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)

Car Analogy

If the car is less than 8 years old and 80k miles, a new cat is free from Honda. Federal law requires that. Of course, Honda isn't going to replace it if its not really bad, which sounds like it may not be.

If it really does need a cat, and car is outside this federal warranty, then just buy a used cat. You can find decent, low mileage ones for around $100 or less. They are available since so many foolishly replace theirs with a test pipe.

Are you sure shop tightened the cam bolts? Maybe it was the cam gear bolt? That would be a reasonable thing to check, and would show knowledge of the S (this is not a thing you'd worry about with other cars).

NebraskaS2k

The shop found the number 2 spark plug fouled and I had just replaced/checked them 1,500 miles prior.
They performed a compression check and found the second cylinder to be lower than the others.
They pulled the cover and while checking the valves found that the bolts holding the camshaft were loose so they tightened them and found the valves within spec.

The catalytic converter rattles when it is struck and they advised that the rattling will sometimes confuse the knock sensor. ( i installed that with an after market unit)

I'm leaning towards just removing the inards from the catalytic converter.

Thanks for comments.

MBHs2k

If you do decide to purchase a cat, they can be found on here used for around $100.

jyeung528

i'm using a berk high flow cat.

has anyone actually passed smog with this cat? 70mm

Car Analogy

Typically there is a visual test, to make sure you have a cat, then they just plug into obd port and make sure there are no cel's, and that readiness monitors are ok.

So assumming you don't have any cel's, all you should need to worry about is visual. If your state makes a big deal about stock appearing emissions equipment, some have installed the stock heat shields onto a hfc with good results.