kwin5946

Definitely a compression problem.. Got a new battery and it still won't start. But wouldn't it still be able to turn over even with low compression in one cylinder?

XxMerlinxX

Evidently not. You could do a leakdown test to try and pinpoint what exactly got damaged, but since the compression went up when you added the oil, you likely fried a piston ring. Even if you didn't, you're still going to have to tear down the engine to diagnose/repair it, so you might as well start looking for a reputable shop in your area to do the work.

JayWLambert

If low compression in one cylinder was the only problem...it should still start and just run poorly. It might take more effort though.

A bad battery while doing a compression check may also have given you that low number...I assume that was the last cylinder you tried?



-Jay

kwin5946

Yes, I started to realize the bad battery was causing my compression numbers to decline as I went down the cylinders so I hooked the battery up to another car via jumper cables and performed the compression test over again resulting in the numbers I received.

I'm guessing there are more problems besides the fried #4 piston ring due to it not turning over even with a good battery. I am going to pull the head tomorrow and inspect. Anything in particular I should be looking for? Burnt valves, etc?

PaGEmaZt3r

Just my opinion but I would say the valves are fine. White smoke is when water gets in your oil. When you pull the head for inspection you will not really be able to tell if the valves are bent without a plastigauge or a machinist, and a slight bend can cause it not to run. (unless they are so smashed its obvious) I'm assuming that your head gasket wore out and leaked water into your oil. Causing your car to overheat and the water/oil mixture to eat at your rings without you realizing it. I would plan on doing a bottom end rebuild. Hopefully your crank and rods are ok and you just need some pistons/rings. Save money by getting steel sleeves and not darton. Just my 2cents



FYI, I slammed my car into 2nd from the top of 3rd and broke of 2 valves, 1 welded itself to the #3 cylinder and the other one exlploded back out the intake and found homes in the other 3 lol
I did the whole entire rebuild by myself in my garage excluding machine work. I'm sitting at about 600 miles so far and it's running good

I spent about six grand doing so but with aftermarket parts that I didn't really need, If you do end up needing a rebuild and you are going to do it by yourself pm me for any questions and I may be able to save you a lot of time...
Took me 3 months of Internet searching, calling shops, manuals, and a lot of hours after work to complete the task. Good luck though!

_brandon

Check the cylinder walls for scoring too while you are at it. Just look at the cylinder walls and if something looks different than the other ones. Also since you said no coolant/oil was mixing I can say it is safe to assume white smoke was from the IACV, I know people are saying it isnt substantial enough but with it pouring in like that I would say so. When you pull the head check for warpage. Get a straightedge (true one, dont use your kids ruler lol) and do the crisscross method described in the shop manual. Everything else you will want a shop to look at.
Sorry it turned out like this

kwin5946

Thanks a lot guys. I'm gonna pull the head today and check everything twice. Is it alright to check the cylinder walls while the block is still in the car? I'm guessing I would just rotate the crank and check it out, and once done rotate it so #1 is back at TDC?

kwin5946

Valves have same black gunk on them...

XxMerlinxX

Is it gummy-like or hard? Do you have a straight edge to check the head to see if it's warped? What were the rings like on #4?

kwin5946

It's kind of like caked on.. Pretty sure the head got warped, but I don't have an exact straight edge to check so I'm sending it to the machine shop. Didn't want to deal with this headache anymore so I'm just going to send everything out to get diagnosed and rebuilt.