Car Stalls when pushing in clutch
#11
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: 12m SW of Glen Rose, Tx
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1. Will the car idle normally in neutral with clutch pedal up (not pressed in)?
2. Does the problem occur only with throttle at idle or near idle?
3. I'm not sure what you mean by "engage" the clutch. Does engage mean
Push the clutch pedal down . (I would call that disengaging the clutch)
Release the pedal upward. (I would call that engaging the clutch.)
When I "come to a stop sign", I push the clutch pedal down, to disengage the clutch, or more completely disengage the engine from the transmission by disengaging the the clutch disk from both.
Are we talking about the clutch pedal or the clutch?
Common idiom on this can be confusing, because the terms to describe the clutch pedal and the clutch itself seem to contradict. Many say "clutch" when they mean clutch pedal. "I coast up to a stop sign while stepping on the clutch." Meaning clutch pedal. Harmless in this case but confusing in others.
Pushing the clutch pedal requires force and might seem like "engaging" whatever is attached to the pedal. That something is the clutch release or "throw-out" mechanism. And as its name suggests, that mechanism disengages the clutch.
Last edited by Gregg Lee; 10-08-2020 at 03:15 PM. Reason: typos
#12
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I could have made my first reply shorter. I just noticed that I overlooked the thread title which says "pushing in clutch" I assume you meant clutch pedal. So your problem sounds like mine, which occurred when I pressed in clutch pedal and went to idle at stop sign, worse with A/C on etc. Also in neutral with clutch pedal released. Nothing to do with crank end play etc. And nothing to do with clutch.
#13
His engine is dying, when he comes to a stop and pushes the clutch pedal down to the floor. Classic, possible thrust bearing issues.
#14
sorry i have been really sick, thanks for everyone responding. So the issue occurs when i push in the clutch petal(disengage the clutch) ((sorry)). the car idle drops very low and causes the car to stall. This happens in neutral or in gear. the car also does not have to be moving to have this occur. throttle does not cause the car to die on its own, i have to press the clutch petal for the car to drop below normal idle and eventually stall out. This happens specifically when the car is at proper temp. when the car is warming up this does not occur. Also just to clarify just last week i replaced the clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate, and resurfaced the flywheel. Greg how did you solve the problem with yours??? Also i will use that link Flanders and do a measurement. thank you!!
#15
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My car is a MY 2000 by the way, original owner. MY2000 is virtually identical to MY2001.
Solution was I changed all the coils and the problem disappeared. They had apparently been getting slowly worse over time. I changed the plugs and checked valve clearances first, which seemed to help, but then got worse again. Eventually became what was clearly a single cylinder not firing. Rocking engine, exhaust "poot poot poot." at one-half of RPM. Until that point ODB2 never gave a definitive code. But by then is was obvious. My big mistake in all this was to assume that ODB2 would flag a bad coil, so I skipped to other things first.
I changed all four coils and the problem completely disappeared.
I then found that engine performance at all rpms improved. Apparently it had faded, but didn't run rough above idle, so I hadn't noticed the gradual slip.
Your problem description and mine in the This thread sound essentially the same, unless you mean that pushing in the clutch pedal in neutral at idle makes a difference. On mine the problem was just ignition performance at idle rpm. No significant difference between in neutral or holding clutch pedal down.
Apparently the decaying coils just required more voltage than the alternator provides at idle rpm. [For example primary resistance could be slowly increasing.] The problem only appeared when engine was warm because the ECM raises idle rpm and with it the alternator voltage when the engine is cool. When warm, a slight press on throttle pedal to raise revs would keep engine running.
Solution was I changed all the coils and the problem disappeared. They had apparently been getting slowly worse over time. I changed the plugs and checked valve clearances first, which seemed to help, but then got worse again. Eventually became what was clearly a single cylinder not firing. Rocking engine, exhaust "poot poot poot." at one-half of RPM. Until that point ODB2 never gave a definitive code. But by then is was obvious. My big mistake in all this was to assume that ODB2 would flag a bad coil, so I skipped to other things first.
I changed all four coils and the problem completely disappeared.
I then found that engine performance at all rpms improved. Apparently it had faded, but didn't run rough above idle, so I hadn't noticed the gradual slip.
Your problem description and mine in the This thread sound essentially the same, unless you mean that pushing in the clutch pedal in neutral at idle makes a difference. On mine the problem was just ignition performance at idle rpm. No significant difference between in neutral or holding clutch pedal down.
Apparently the decaying coils just required more voltage than the alternator provides at idle rpm. [For example primary resistance could be slowly increasing.] The problem only appeared when engine was warm because the ECM raises idle rpm and with it the alternator voltage when the engine is cool. When warm, a slight press on throttle pedal to raise revs would keep engine running.
#17
Each crankshaft has only two halves.
#20
The thrust washers are on the upper crank girdle, so you have to pull the oil pan, the lower block girdle, and support the crankshaft. The washers sit in a groove and you have to rotate them out of the groove and slip the new ones on. It isn't an easy job, probably easier to pull the engine and do it on an engine stand.
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