Car Shaking From Stop & Shaking Startup
11-09-2013, 02:36 AM
#22
A T20 5 point bit to be exact. (pentacle bit is the mechanics slang)
There are likely only two places you will find this rare tool, and that's on a tool truck or online.
Take that valve off and work on a bench. There are tiny special hourglass shaped spacer plates in between the halves that can get lost very easy.
Take it apart, noting the CLOCK position of the shaft. It must be put back the same way.
Once the shaft is revealed, just spin it with your fingers. Give it a few good "whips" with your finger to spin it at high speed.
There are tiny bearings on each end of the shaft, like roller skate bearings. A drop of machine oil in each one is the way to go.
Enjoy your perfect idle pretty much forever.
Spray cleaning is a quick fix, and washes dirt and debris into the bearings. This is why spray cleaning works at first, then fails.
There are likely only two places you will find this rare tool, and that's on a tool truck or online.
Take that valve off and work on a bench. There are tiny special hourglass shaped spacer plates in between the halves that can get lost very easy.
Take it apart, noting the CLOCK position of the shaft. It must be put back the same way.
Once the shaft is revealed, just spin it with your fingers. Give it a few good "whips" with your finger to spin it at high speed.
There are tiny bearings on each end of the shaft, like roller skate bearings. A drop of machine oil in each one is the way to go.
Enjoy your perfect idle pretty much forever.
Spray cleaning is a quick fix, and washes dirt and debris into the bearings. This is why spray cleaning works at first, then fails.
11-12-2013, 06:05 AM
#23
Ok, here's what a managed to do so far:
I cleaned the IAC and "tapped" the MAP. I'll admit I was a little hesitant about the MAP cause I wasn't sure how I should "whack" it. So far I haven't had any rough idle going to a stop but it hard to tell because it wasn't that bad to begin with and didn't happen a lot. I'll wait a few days and pay attention some more while I'm driving.
As far as the cold start problems:
I had the battery checked in AutoZone and they said the battery is fine. I had the spark plugs changed last month and put fuel injector cleaner a week after i bought the car. Also, I only fill up my car with Shell's gasoline V-power and I still have the same issue every first start in the morning. What am I missing here? What else could it be?
I cleaned the IAC and "tapped" the MAP. I'll admit I was a little hesitant about the MAP cause I wasn't sure how I should "whack" it. So far I haven't had any rough idle going to a stop but it hard to tell because it wasn't that bad to begin with and didn't happen a lot. I'll wait a few days and pay attention some more while I'm driving.
As far as the cold start problems:
I had the battery checked in AutoZone and they said the battery is fine. I had the spark plugs changed last month and put fuel injector cleaner a week after i bought the car. Also, I only fill up my car with Shell's gasoline V-power and I still have the same issue every first start in the morning. What am I missing here? What else could it be?
11-12-2013, 06:49 AM
#24
have you also checked your throttle cable deflection? it might help a bit. there should be no more than half inch deflection when TB is closed. some other users have had luck by completely changing out the map sensor. be ware those 2 small bolts tend to get stuck. you might need a impact driver. take it off inspect and clean. maybe change it?
11-13-2013, 04:43 AM
#26
After you whacked your MAP sensor, did you reset the ECU and re-do the idle learn procedure? Just curious. I'm not sure if it would help with your cold start problems, but the MAP sensor might need to be whacked harder, or even replaced. I replaced mine and it fixed all my problems. Car runs like new.
11-13-2013, 05:24 AM
#27
Yeah, worse case I might have to replace it. It cant hurt. generally, how much would it be for a new one? Is there a part number available? I heard there's a new MAP out there different from the original. I could be wrong.
11-13-2013, 05:34 AM
#28
11-14-2013, 12:38 PM
#30
update: Alright guys, help me out on this one. Yesterday was extremely cold (36 degrees F) and first startup rev'ed up to 2500 rpms and idles around 1200 when up to temp compared to how it was around 900 rpm.. Idle is higher but it could just be from the cold weather or the cleaner IAC. Normal right?
But here's my main concern:
Driving the car feels different to me now. Usually I would notice rpms drop faster when I release the throttle to shift into next gear. But now in between shifts, I noticed my rpms "sticks", "holds in place", or "stay still" for a second or 2 before dropping as if im holding the throttle at 4k for a second while shifting to the next gear. I know for a fact my foot is off the pedal.
On the bright side the transition feels smoother when downshifting because of it. It sort of gives the car a better rev match but I don't know if the "sticking" revs is considered normal or not.
But here's my main concern:
Driving the car feels different to me now. Usually I would notice rpms drop faster when I release the throttle to shift into next gear. But now in between shifts, I noticed my rpms "sticks", "holds in place", or "stay still" for a second or 2 before dropping as if im holding the throttle at 4k for a second while shifting to the next gear. I know for a fact my foot is off the pedal.
On the bright side the transition feels smoother when downshifting because of it. It sort of gives the car a better rev match but I don't know if the "sticking" revs is considered normal or not.