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Car shakes under a certain amount of acceleration

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Old 08-10-2014, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Shaney
Are cv joints/buckets/cups all referring to the same thing? And why do I need new axles? I can just get new cups right?
Yep those terms are all the same, and if you get a new(used) set of axles you can replace the ones you have, or just cannibalize all the good parts and put them on your existing axles(if the inner buckets on the new(used) axles are good you just saved a ton of money!). Then you can sell all the good parts that are left over and make some of your money back.

However if your buckets are still not pitted too badly just swap them, which is free, if you diy.
Old 08-11-2014, 08:19 AM
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How long would it take to swap them side to side?
Old 08-11-2014, 04:13 PM
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If you have seven thumbs and never turned a wrench, if you follow the DIY you can knock it off in an afternoon. You don't even have to remove the axles. Just take off the rear wheels, unbolt the brake line brackets to give yourself a little more room, remove the cotter pin then the castle nut, then pop off the lower ball joint, then remove the bolts holding the inner cups to the differential flange as well as the band clamps holding the boot to the axle, swing the rear knuckle/upright as far as you can get it without damaging the ABS line you should be able to pull the axle enough and clear the spider assembly. Then repeat on other side, clean cups PACK THEM WITH GREASE, swap em, and install in reverse order. You use the same pitman arm puller to pop and re-insert the ball joint back into place. You can also remove the upper A-arm bolts instead of popping the ball joint but you have to preload the suspension before you tighten them to spec, which I believe is 84ft lbs but don't quote me on that.
Old 08-11-2014, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
If you have seven thumbs and never turned a wrench, if you follow the DIY you can knock it off in an afternoon. You don't even have to remove the axles. Just take off the rear wheels, unbolt the brake line brackets to give yourself a little more room, remove the cotter pin then the castle nut, then pop off the lower ball joint, then remove the bolts holding the inner cups to the differential flange as well as the band clamps holding the boot to the axle, swing the rear knuckle/upright as far as you can get it without damaging the ABS line you should be able to pull the axle enough and clear the spider assembly. Then repeat on other side, clean cups PACK THEM WITH GREASE, swap em, and install in reverse order. You use the same pitman arm puller to pop and re-insert the ball joint back into place. You can also remove the upper A-arm bolts instead of popping the ball joint but you have to preload the suspension before you tighten them to spec, which I believe is 84ft lbs but don't quote me on that.
No offense, but ain't no way in hell he'll knck it off in an afternoon! He's got NO experience working on cars. If everything went perfect, and it won't, it would be ALL day. To the OP, you can do this if you want, but plan on 2 days of down time.

No experience with the particular repair equals 2-3 times normal, no experience with repairing cars in general equals 10 times longer than normal. Heck, it would take a couple hours for someone with no repair experience just to change his oil the first time.
Old 08-11-2014, 04:59 PM
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Took me around 7 hrs to change my clutch, I could have gone faster but I wanted to be thorough. Had never even so much as changed the oil on my car until then. I just read until I knew exactly what to do, I can do it in 3 hours now. Knowing is half the battle, and you can find all the nuances between the service manual and this website.
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