Car problems after Comptech SC install
#1
Thread Starter
Car problems after Comptech SC install
After having a Comptech SC with AC installed on my car I'm having an intermitten problem. At times while driving the car will lose power, sometimes for just a second or two, sometimes longer. It's hard to describe, but it feels like it's stumbling...almost like it's running on 3 cylinders. If I put it in neutral while this is happening, the car will drop down to about 300rpm and idle real rough (and most of the time stall). I installed new Denso IK24's yesterday and some gas treatment, but the problem came back a few times last night. The car will start up fine when it's cold, and I'm usually having the problem after I've driven somewhere, stopped for a little while then started the car and drive somewhere else. Most of the time it's happening just while I'm cruising, say 3-4K rpm.
The engine is stock except for whatever came with the Comptech kit. It's a 2001 with 36K miles.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Scott-
The engine is stock except for whatever came with the Comptech kit. It's a 2001 with 36K miles.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Scott-
#2
Double and triple check all your wiring. I'll bet you've got some of the wires poorly connected. You should solder them all if they aren't already. Also, there is a good possibility that you have some wires going to the wrong places. Only last week, was there a similar post like this one and it ended up that even though the owner was positive that his wiring was correct, when I kept at him to check again, two of the wires were going to the wrong places. Once corrected and all connections soldered, the car ran great.
You might be interested to know that Comptech has advised all new purchasers to NOT use the crimp connectors that are supplied with the kit. Solder ONLY.
You might be interested to know that Comptech has advised all new purchasers to NOT use the crimp connectors that are supplied with the kit. Solder ONLY.
#3
Former Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Paradise Valley, AZ miss NYC
Posts: 13,831
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
[QUOTE=xviper,Aug 17 2004, 03:09 PM] You might be interested to know that Comptech has advised all new purchasers to NOT use the crimp connectors that are supplied with the kit.
#4
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by xviper,Aug 17 2004, 01:09 PM
Double and triple check all your wiring. I'll bet you've got some of the wires poorly connected. You should solder them all if they aren't already. Also, there is a good possibility that you have some wires going to the wrong places. Only last week, was there a similar post like this one and it ended up that even though the owner was positive that his wiring was correct, when I kept at him to check again, two of the wires were going to the wrong places. Once corrected and all connections soldered, the car ran great.
You might be interested to know that Comptech has advised all new purchasers to NOT use the crimp connectors that are supplied with the kit. Solder ONLY.
You might be interested to know that Comptech has advised all new purchasers to NOT use the crimp connectors that are supplied with the kit. Solder ONLY.
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Goodyear
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yup...sounds like an ESM problem. Make sure it is wired up correctly, and if it is hooked up right, you may need to have the unit looked at by Comptech. I have heard of a few of them going bad and needing replaced. That would be the first place I would look.
JJ
JJ
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: By da Beach NJ
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the same problem last week when i did my comptech S/C install. I do not have the A/C. So if i don't know anythingabout that. My car was doing the same thind and it was my vaccume lines. Make sure they are all hooked up right. I forgot to put the one on the bottom of the by-pass valve, which T's off to the Fuel pressure regulator(FPR). My FPR was not getting the right vaccume. Do u have a boost gauge???? Cupple of days after the install I had the problem againg. It was doingthe same thing but this time the by-pass valve was hooked up. I was stumped but thought it had to do with vaccume again. So I checked all the lines and everything was OK. Then I remembered the boost gauge is ran off of vaccume and sure enough the line slipped out of the compression fitting on the back of the gauge creating another leak in the system.
If you want I can take detaled pics of the way the vaccume lines are ran. But if any of the vaccume lines go to the A/C them I can't help you with that
Good luck and hope this helps you
Kenny
If you want I can take detaled pics of the way the vaccume lines are ran. But if any of the vaccume lines go to the A/C them I can't help you with that
Good luck and hope this helps you
Kenny
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by turbo_pwr,Aug 17 2004, 02:28 PM
I find that funny. I took an advanced ECU tuning class recently with folks who have been in the industry for years. They all think soldering is worst then using the proper crimping tools/supplies. These are guys that have built 1000 hp Porsches race boats, and done engine building for many race teams including manufacturers. Everyone of them stated that under the constant stop and go stress they have seen soldered connections come apart overtime. They told me to use crimp connections with heat shrink around it. I guess it comes down to who taught you.
I think the most common problem that those who crimp, is that they think that one quick crimp is enough and they don't even check to see that the crimp is secure before moving on to the next wire.
Quite amazinly though, the last several Comptech owners I have been advising have all had problems due to crimped connections. Upon soldering all of them, their cars began to run just fine with further re-occurances of the problems that drove them all nuts. A good forum friend actually went to Comptech to get his problems finally checked out. They did only the soldering and sent him on his way. It was at this time that I was informed of the advisory from Comptech being instituted.
#9
Former Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Paradise Valley, AZ miss NYC
Posts: 13,831
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Dave, almost every one of these guys was laughing at me for soldering my connections. Of course these guys were recommending that I buy $400 crimp tools as well. They swear by the stuff. All of them were in the business, I was the only one not there for a business purpose. I think what you said is valid proper crimping is key.
#10
Former Moderator
The T-taps and Scotch Locks are displacement type splices. They cut the existing wires insulation to "bridge" 2 wires. These are the splices that cause problems. More than half of the problems I've seen with the t-taps are from poor installation. They just don't get "locked" over or come apart.
There are some great crimp and heat shrink connectors that are very easy to use. 3M makes them. You crimp, heat, and the connection is done, and sealed. I've got a ratcheting crimper with interchangeable jaw inserts that makes factory perfect crimps.
There is some truth in using good tools, they make doing wiring work easier and less trouble prone.