Car misfires, idles really bad and dies when giving it gas
#11
I bought the car 4months ago and it was in perfect condition after that I kept it how it has bone stock I have not done any modifications to it and it all happen suddenly one morning I work up for work and went to warm it up and then I was heading out and the car was missfiring with the check engine light blinking
#12
What brand and type spark plugs? And how tight to do put them into the engine?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#13
ngks and trust me I had them on good and my friend and I did a valve adjustment and we also did a compression test and it was under 120 all 4 and after the valve adjustment it still does the same thing
#14
That doesn't sound good, next step would be to see where you're leaking 100psi of compression from. When you did the compression test, warm engine, wide open throttle? Did you try putting in a a tablespoon full of oil down the cylinder to see if compression increased? Or a leakdown test(just pump air into the cylinder down the spark plug tube. Take the hose from the compression tester, remove the Schroeder valve, and attach it to an air line, and pump air into cylinder, and listen where the air is coming from. If it's valve related it'll come out the intake, or exhaust, if it's cylinder related it'll come out the oil cap and dip stick tube.
If the problem is head related, you can get the head serviced or grab a used one, if it's cylinder related you're better off getting another engine or find a used block and pistons. Given what it takes to re-finish the cylinders on these engines it's almost not worth the hassle. If it's head related depending on the damage it may be a better idea to get a good used head than try to fix it. If it's just guides and valves and the seats aren't trashed it's not too bad, the seats have very specific angles from the factory. Doing a standard 3 angle valve job will take power away, ours is a 4 angle nearly radius valve job. Angles are 40 45 62.5 and 82.5 intake and 30 45 62.5 and 82.5 for exhaust, most 3 angle valve jobs are 30 45 60, and that last 82.5 angle is critical, as are the throat entry angles. The closer the last angle is to 90 degrees the better.
I don't think it's a head gasket as that usually causes low compression in two adjoining cylinders, and you'll see bubbles in the overflow bottle, and nasty coolant.
If the problem is head related, you can get the head serviced or grab a used one, if it's cylinder related you're better off getting another engine or find a used block and pistons. Given what it takes to re-finish the cylinders on these engines it's almost not worth the hassle. If it's head related depending on the damage it may be a better idea to get a good used head than try to fix it. If it's just guides and valves and the seats aren't trashed it's not too bad, the seats have very specific angles from the factory. Doing a standard 3 angle valve job will take power away, ours is a 4 angle nearly radius valve job. Angles are 40 45 62.5 and 82.5 intake and 30 45 62.5 and 82.5 for exhaust, most 3 angle valve jobs are 30 45 60, and that last 82.5 angle is critical, as are the throat entry angles. The closer the last angle is to 90 degrees the better.
I don't think it's a head gasket as that usually causes low compression in two adjoining cylinders, and you'll see bubbles in the overflow bottle, and nasty coolant.
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