Spec_Ops2087

If you follow Xviper's instructions / the helms manuel instructions the bleed job should be fine. Once your done run the engine for a bit and keep topping off the engine coolent in the little resivour(sp -- I suck at spelling); do this for the next few days and your golden. The system bleeds itself really.

Race Miata

I just took a look at the Helms Manual. The IAC valve (which double-duty as cold fast idle valve) sits on the side of the manifold behind the throttle body. You should see the 2 hoses going into and out of the valve.

I'm not sure if I understand your description about your hose routing for the turbo. Are you saying that you bypassed the throttle body? Or did you insert the turbo in series with the coolant path which was once flowing from the head to the throttle body? When stock, coolant flow thru' the TB is in series with the IAC valve. If you bypassed TB, you most likely bypassed IAC as well. If not, double-check that coolant path is not reversed thru' the IAC. Coolant-controlled valve can react dramatically different with reverse coolant flow.

Race Miata

Is the 22inHg at 1000rpm or 2400rpm idle? In any case, this number doesn't warrant vacuum leak. As long as the potential vacuum leak is not near the vacuum fitting you have for the boost gauge, you *might* see similar vacuum reading regardless of rpm because vacuum is more of an indication of engine load for a given engine setup.

Since this fast idle doesn't happen all the time, I assume any potential vacuum leak in this case is leading to some control valve where it doesn't open the flow all the time.

XclusiveAutosports

Race Miata, no, I didn't bypass the TB. For the turbo I just cut the coolant line that goes from the head to the TB and placed the turbo inline with it so that if flows through the turbo and then back to its normal path. I will check to make sure that the coolant lines are hooked up correctly to the turbo.

The 22inHg is when the car is idling at 1,000rpm. What is strange is that once the car starts idling at 2400 it will stay there until the car is shut off. I'm confused about the whole thing.

XclusiveAutosports

Its a long shot, but I just thought of something else. I removed the air pump from my car when I installed the turbo. Can this have anything to do with it?

XclusiveAutosports

I just bled the coolant system again, and I just noticed a leak at my PCV valve. I have a slight hissing noise that is coming from it. I am going to get a new one from Honda in a few minutes and swap that out. If that doesn't work then I will go get a new IAC and swap that out.

Wisconsin S2k

sounds like you're in the right direction so far.

XclusiveAutosports

I just swapped the PCV valve out, and although it stopped the hissing, it still idles at 2400 when I drive the car for a few minutes. Time to get an IAC to swap out now.

Race Miata, I know that you asked me before how the coolant lines felt that are going into the IAC and they are very HOT after a short drive, they are suppose to be like that right?

Race Miata

The coolant lines to and away from the IAC valve should be hot after fully warmed up.

Does the EMS control the IAC?

XclusiveAutosports

Yes, the lines are getting fully hot after I drive the car. I just looked into it and the EMS does control the IAC so that may be where the problem lies. I was just checking for a vac leak again and I noticed that one of my vac hoses that goes from under the fuel rail cover to the first white check valve was unplugged, I plugged it back in and drove the car and the car idled perfect, but after a few minutes it began doing the same thing with going back to over 2,000rpm to idle. Now that all of the vac lines are plugged in, the car will idle fine at 1000 or 1100rpm, but every once and a while it will hit over 2,000rpm again so this seemed to solve some of the problem, but not the whole thing. Maybe my IAC is on the way out or it is something with the EMS then.