RGTorque

first off, let me say that this engine is in a super 7 and not in an s2000. i have the engine and trans only. no emissions stuff and only the o2 running. ecu is factory 2001.

hello, all.

car was has been running fine. recently had a good track day. went to take the car out for a fun run around town and i noticed no vtech and no power over 7000rpm(engine cuts out). i plugged in the scan tool and get 2 codes

P1607, which is a "Engine Control Module ECM/Powertrain Control Module PCM Internal Circuit Malfunction"

P1298 Electrical Load Detector Circuit high voltage

now, i know what your going to say. bad ecu and check your eld.

1) i have no eld. i dont use a factory fuse box. i have some fuses in the car and none are bad.
2) ecu does not look to be bad. i got another one and it popped the same exact codes.

now for the odd stuff...

when the car is NOT at operating temperature, the car WILL go into vtech and rev to 9k. soon as its warm, no go. key cycling does not help.

i checked all my wiring and it seems fine. also replaced the coolant temp sensor and it did not change a thing.

things i know/can see

1) fuel pressure at the rain looks good
2) oil pressure looks good
3) screen on vtech actuator is clean and it "clicks" when you put power to it, so its good i imagine
4) alternator seems to be putting out correct voltage

recently i upgraded from an older fuel pump to a 034 surge tank setup. THIS ONE . also installed one more filter between my aluminum tank and my facet (low pressure high flow) pump. on my last track day i did have some issues with the car shutting off if i pushed it hard around some sections of the track, but it would be fine after key cycle. later i found a few loose wires and i cleaned and tightened everything. have not been on the track since to test if ill have that issue again, especially with this new issue.

i have an aem ecu that is currently programmed for a supercharger and alcohol so i cant try that. if someone could give me a map that i can drop on that i would give it a try.

im reaching out for help!

also if anyone is in the philly area that can lend a land i would be so grateful as my expertise is in diesel vw's...


car in question

Chuck S

I won't say "check your eld" as I've no clue what you're referring to.

The engine logic is somehow reversed. VTEC should not engage until the car is fully warmed up. Although normal VTEC is 6000 rpm.

But the engine cutting out is just like the rev-limiter which in standard ECUs cuts the fuel pump. Run a 12v trouble light to detect power at the fuel pump (just need some two conductor wire like "lamp cord") and see if the light goes out when the engine cuts out.

-- Chuck

Slowcrash_101

The ELD is part of the fuse box, it's a $24 part.

Not exactly the same, but more or less in true Honda fashion

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYVWmQE5tDk[/media]

flanders

First off the factory rev limiter does not cut the fuel pump, it just cuts the injectors.

Did you have your car running without any codes before?
Are you using a S2000 main relay?
Does the temp readings look normal if you check them through the OBD port? If you are using S2000 cluster that would probably work just as good.
There is not much to go on with the P1607 code, manual just says to try and clear the code or replace the ecu.
I'm not sure if this code will cause limp mode but it seems likely.

MorngWoodStewie

Ohhh boi! this must be funn

Chuck S

Thanks for the correction! I knew it cut the fuel. Make sense to turn off the ejectors.

-- Chuck

RGTorque

1) i never wired a scan port before i had this issue. my understanding is these codes are normal for all other super s7s wired like my own.

2) no s2000 stuff there but the engine, partial harness, ecu and a few sensors

3) temp readings i see are coming from the gauge on my dash. ill have to plug in the scan tool and verify, if it will even give me temp.

here is the engine bay to give you an idea of my hardware

MorngWoodStewie

These cel's were designed and engineered in a S2k chassis. ...gonna be hard to truly pinpoint the root cause. U might actually save money to just buy a standalone EMS, and get a dyno tune. If it is a common problem doing research on the super 7 "swap" u will most likely have better luck there. (Forums maybe)

Edit: out of curiosity; can u bring the car to operating temp, reset ecu and hit vtec (like once); and then it trips it into limp mode? With CEL. So while cold it won't trip I kno atleast after once in vtec it will heat up quick but just wondering if it completely stays off until it hits operating temp or it trips after one vtec cycle.

Sounds like it is being tripped by irregular voltage fluctuations maybe.
Irregular wire gauges, wrong size fuses. I'm not a electrical engineer, I would spring for the standalone. U could still have alot of fail-safes and engine protections even with. GL

flanders

Alright so it's likely that you had these codes since the beginning and that they shouldn't be the reason for the VTEC problem.
If you are using the stock temp sensor you should be able to read it with a scan tool.
If those reading does look good I'm not sure what else to check, I would probably start spending time on installing that AEM ecu instead.
With a free flowing exhaust and no cat (or with a hfc) you should be able to free up lots of midrange power with a lower VTEC and some tuning.

windhund116

If he only tracks this car --- is there a way to lock the VTEC solenoid to ON, all the time? Not sure how the car will run under 6K RPMs. But, at least he'll have full HP.