Car car dies after putting in clutch after 20 or so driving miles.
#1
car dies after putting in clutch after 20 or so driving miles.
Hey guys I recently did a fresh engine build after spinning a bearing on my 01 s2000. The car never ran quite right since I bought it. It used to misfire and it ran a code for the ecu being faulty. After the rebuild I replaced the battery, alternator, Plugs and packs, ecu, and the engine and dash harness. The car now runs pretty well but after about 15 or so miles of driving the car will shutter and die when I put in the clutch. The lights dim and the car won’t start back up unless I jump it. I have double checked my grounds and they are good and I have rechecked the battery and alternator and both are testing ok. I changed a few fuses but it’s still doing the same thing. It is throwing a few check codes p1298 for the electric load detector. (I borrowed a friends from his crashed s2000 and I’m still having the issue) and p0135, p0141 for the o2 sensors. Thanks for all your help in advance.
#2
Have you checked the grounds after the car was hot? It sounds like the issue is likely tied to heat in some way since it is happening after the same amount of time each time. Rather than just testing the grounds, if you can disconnect them, clean them and reconnect them it is better. If it is intermittent you may have an issue finding the bad one otherwise.
One of the symptoms that goes along with the load detection code is rough idle or stumbling when dropping back to idle, which is your symptom. Being it has to be jumped after, I would say the system is indeed detecting a high load (it monitors the load on the charging system, which indicates if something is pulling a high current). If you reset the code, you can start the car, and turn on high electrical loads like the headlights and fan to see if the code returns. The connections and harness to the load detector should be checked well too.
When you drive it, do you let it warm up completely or just start and drive? I wonder if this is happening the first time the cooling fan kicks on which may lead to the current draw issue. You could let it idle in the driveway until the fans come on to see if that is the culprit.
Various Honda forums have instructions on how to test this. But... since your car has to be jumped off after it happens, I feel you may actually have a high load issue going on somewhere, or something in the charging system acting flaky.
When you test the charging system, what voltage do you see at idle? If someone turns on the heater fan and headlights, what happens, and what happens to that voltage when the cooling fan cycles on?
One of the symptoms that goes along with the load detection code is rough idle or stumbling when dropping back to idle, which is your symptom. Being it has to be jumped after, I would say the system is indeed detecting a high load (it monitors the load on the charging system, which indicates if something is pulling a high current). If you reset the code, you can start the car, and turn on high electrical loads like the headlights and fan to see if the code returns. The connections and harness to the load detector should be checked well too.
When you drive it, do you let it warm up completely or just start and drive? I wonder if this is happening the first time the cooling fan kicks on which may lead to the current draw issue. You could let it idle in the driveway until the fans come on to see if that is the culprit.
Various Honda forums have instructions on how to test this. But... since your car has to be jumped off after it happens, I feel you may actually have a high load issue going on somewhere, or something in the charging system acting flaky.
When you test the charging system, what voltage do you see at idle? If someone turns on the heater fan and headlights, what happens, and what happens to that voltage when the cooling fan cycles on?
#3
hey thanks for the reply. I always warm the car up to three bars before driving it. today I got my battery back after having it being tested and it was only charging up to 9.6v so I just got a new battery today. with this I also got new battery connectors because mine were looking pretty bad and I took off the ground to the batter and sanded it a bit because it was looking very worn.The battery is reading about 12.3 and under load it was reading 11.9 and then made its way back up to 12.1v or 12.2v, the voltage stays at around 12.3v when the fans kick on as well. the car starts up now as it did but the same three codes come on. weirdly the symptoms have slightly changed. now the car wont die on its own, but it does die every time I engage the clutch(when the car is warmed up). meaning if I leave the car in the drive way, let it warm up and rev it slightly it will go back to idle but if I engage the clutch it will drop below idle and die. now I can start it back up without a jump though. Tomorrow I can go through the remaining grounds to the car and take them off and clean them. do you have any other suggestions for things to do?
#5
hey thanks for the reply. I always warm the car up to three bars before driving it. today I got my battery back after having it being tested and it was only charging up to 9.6v so I just got a new battery today. with this I also got new battery connectors because mine were looking pretty bad and I took off the ground to the batter and sanded it a bit because it was looking very worn.The battery is reading about 12.3 and under load it was reading 11.9 and then made its way back up to 12.1v or 12.2v, the voltage stays at around 12.3v when the fans kick on as well. the car starts up now as it did but the same three codes come on. weirdly the symptoms have slightly changed. now the car wont die on its own, but it does die every time I engage the clutch(when the car is warmed up). meaning if I leave the car in the drive way, let it warm up and rev it slightly it will go back to idle but if I engage the clutch it will drop below idle and die. now I can start it back up without a jump though. Tomorrow I can go through the remaining grounds to the car and take them off and clean them. do you have any other suggestions for things to do?
#6
#7
I feel like it’s totally a problem with the electrical charging system. I have just taken off the grounds from the battery, the engine harness, by the abs system and down to the block, and the ground from the block to the frame. And cleaned them. Now im
looking to put them back in. Maybe my ground positions are incorrect. Does anyone have pictures where the grounds belong (under the car) I agree with the free play thing but there is totally a problem with the electrical system.
looking to put them back in. Maybe my ground positions are incorrect. Does anyone have pictures where the grounds belong (under the car) I agree with the free play thing but there is totally a problem with the electrical system.