Can't decide on brake pads...
#21
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Originally Posted by VeilsideAP1,Sep 18 2004, 08:04 PM
Project Mu B-Force pads are great, but a tad on the dusty side... just my .02
They dust like a dirty
#24
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Wow, the co-eff. of friction is like that of wood on iron. .35 is pretty damn low. 0.60 is higher than the factory pads so I dont think that's the co-eff. of friction by the what you are saying about them. That's also the best brake pad that project Mu has by judging by the price . That's a pretty hefty price to pay for pads that perform either similar or worse than OEM. BTW, RACER, did you change your brake fluid when you changed to the project Mu pads? If so, that might be why you experienced little fade.
#25
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I agree. Is the CF 0.35 or 0.60? That's a gigantic range; one's barely adequate for the street, the other smacks of an aggressive track pad. Must be the Hyper Carbon effect.
My main point of amusement, besides the obvious not really stating what the pads are rated at is marketing hyperbole such as this: "Hyper-Carbon blend Brake Pad with Titanium Fluoride." Sounds like something that belongs in toothpaste. These pads are marketed as a hot street pad...for $200 a set in front. Good thing they state "All of our original brake "Project Mu brake pad" product are emerald green painting. There is no product painted by other colors." I'd hate to be caught short without those green painting for my $200
Anyway, all kidding aside. These sound like more bling-bling marketing than a serious pad I'd put on a car...and not worth 1/2 the money they're asking for them. Of course that's just what some people like around here. Note This was not aimed at anyone in particular, just a general observation on how I see products recommended around here.
Racer, if you want to try the Cobalt full race Spec-VR/Spec-C pad set, I'd be more than happy to sell them to you. Keep i mind these are full blown full-race pads and not suitable for the street. What I do guarantee though is that when you hit the pedal on the track, the car will stop and stop NOW! Of course you need to be running a high-quality DOT-4 fluid such as Motul or Ate (out of stock currently) or you're gonna boil the fluid and the car won't stop either.
My main point of amusement, besides the obvious not really stating what the pads are rated at is marketing hyperbole such as this: "Hyper-Carbon blend Brake Pad with Titanium Fluoride." Sounds like something that belongs in toothpaste. These pads are marketed as a hot street pad...for $200 a set in front. Good thing they state "All of our original brake "Project Mu brake pad" product are emerald green painting. There is no product painted by other colors." I'd hate to be caught short without those green painting for my $200
Anyway, all kidding aside. These sound like more bling-bling marketing than a serious pad I'd put on a car...and not worth 1/2 the money they're asking for them. Of course that's just what some people like around here. Note This was not aimed at anyone in particular, just a general observation on how I see products recommended around here.
Racer, if you want to try the Cobalt full race Spec-VR/Spec-C pad set, I'd be more than happy to sell them to you. Keep i mind these are full blown full-race pads and not suitable for the street. What I do guarantee though is that when you hit the pedal on the track, the car will stop and stop NOW! Of course you need to be running a high-quality DOT-4 fluid such as Motul or Ate (out of stock currently) or you're gonna boil the fluid and the car won't stop either.
#26
Originally Posted by krazik,Jun 28 2004, 11:22 AM
While the P+ is a decent pad, they don't hold a candle to the cobalt compounds, and the cobalts don't have that stupid rivet that you have to watch out for unless you want scored rotors.
Cobalt was started by the engineer responsible for all the carbotech compounds.
-Ry
Cobalt was started by the engineer responsible for all the carbotech compounds.
-Ry
I wish I could make it to Button Willow on the 1-3 of Oct. Instead I'll be making the shorter drive to Spring Mountain just outside of Vegas for the 9-10 of Oct event. I'm going to garage the S2K in northern Calif for the winter so I hope to make it out to 3 or 4 Speed Venture and other track events this winter.
#27
Spec-VR front and Spec-C rear.
Not too late to change your mind about Buttonwillow. There should be a lot of S2000's there, so great for seeing how your car and your driving stack up, and everyone learns a lot from each other.
Not too late to change your mind about Buttonwillow. There should be a lot of S2000's there, so great for seeing how your car and your driving stack up, and everyone learns a lot from each other.
#28
Originally Posted by rlaifatt,Sep 19 2004, 04:24 PM
Spec-VR front and Spec-C rear.
Not too late to change your mind about Buttonwillow. There should be a lot of S2000's there, so great for seeing how your car and your driving stack up, and everyone learns a lot from each other.
Not too late to change your mind about Buttonwillow. There should be a lot of S2000's there, so great for seeing how your car and your driving stack up, and everyone learns a lot from each other.
Too late for me ... I already paid for the 9-10 Oct event at Spring Mountain. Once the S2K is in bay area (late Oct), it won't be that long a drive for me to make it to Button Willow or any of the other tracks in Calif.
I'm running cooling ducts to the fronts next week.
#29
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I will put in my vote for Brakeman #3 pads. The work well on the street and have been great on the track. On the track the intial bite is strong and no fade at Lime Rock of NHIS track events. I l let one of the instructors, an E36 BMW guy, take my car out for his session and he remarked on how much he liked the brake bite and feel. (his father is also an instructor and he bought an S2000 for his new track car)
Lots of brake dust and some squeal on the street.
Lots of brake dust and some squeal on the street.
#30
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I've run Spec VR pads up front with oem in the rear with no problems at Thill... I wouldn't suggest it at Laguna though, turn 2 is killer on brakes. Buttonwillow you can probably get away with it, too, plenty of runoff in sunset/sunrise depending on which way you're running