Can't decide on brake pads...
#11
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: the desert, CA
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How would you compare the Cobalt GTs with Porterfieled R4Ss?
Also is the a tutorial for installing SS brakelines? and will the ATE Superblue fluid be fine on the street?
Also is the a tutorial for installing SS brakelines? and will the ATE Superblue fluid be fine on the street?
#12
Administrator
No comparison imo to the R4S. Those have proven to be troublesome and subject to rapid deterioration on the track.
Installing the SS brake lines is pretty straight forward; rather simple actually. The only caveat is that you should invest in the proper wrench called a "flare nut wrench" or a "line wrench" to remove the old lines from the car body and to install the SS ones. I don't remember what size the nuts are...12 mm comes to mind but I'm sure someone knows for sure. These wrenches are special in that they grab 5 (instead of 2) sides of the nut and prevents rounding them off because to replace those is a major pita should you damage them and not be in a full-service shop. Other than that, all you need is simple hand tools. Make sure you read cthree's excellent tutorial on replacing brake pads so you have everything else you need to do the job. Budget about 2-3 hours depending on whether you're doing all four or just the front lines. That timeframe should allow for a complete 4 wheel pad change as well as a complete flush/bleed of the brake system.
The ATE fluid is fine on the street.
Installing the SS brake lines is pretty straight forward; rather simple actually. The only caveat is that you should invest in the proper wrench called a "flare nut wrench" or a "line wrench" to remove the old lines from the car body and to install the SS ones. I don't remember what size the nuts are...12 mm comes to mind but I'm sure someone knows for sure. These wrenches are special in that they grab 5 (instead of 2) sides of the nut and prevents rounding them off because to replace those is a major pita should you damage them and not be in a full-service shop. Other than that, all you need is simple hand tools. Make sure you read cthree's excellent tutorial on replacing brake pads so you have everything else you need to do the job. Budget about 2-3 hours depending on whether you're doing all four or just the front lines. That timeframe should allow for a complete 4 wheel pad change as well as a complete flush/bleed of the brake system.
The ATE fluid is fine on the street.
#13
Two other helpful items: Service manual & speedbleeders.
#14
I would like to offer my experience with Stock, R4S and Carbotech P+ on HPDE events. P+ definitely much better than R4S in terms of brake feel and performance. However, after one track event weekend use, it makes lots of noise during street driving (stopping to STOP sign). Since I am too lazy to switch brake pads ; I have been using stock pads and replace them at the end of every track events because they are cook afterwards. I go thru 3sets / year which cost me $240/year. I am going to try Cobalt next.
#16
Administrator
Care to expand on great? What are the temp ranges for the pads you're recommending? What is the coeffecient of friction? What major race teams use these pads?
#18
Pads are so easy and quick to change on this car that there is no reason to use compromise pads for the track or for the street. Get a set of full race pads for the track, and OEM pads for the street...best of both worlds. And once you have tried race pads on the track, you will realize what you've been missing and would never go back to part-track/part street pads. My 2cents.
#19
Registered User
Line wrench(10mm) is a must as stated for removing/installing brake lines. I found out the hard way. I use P+'s on the track/autocross. I do not experience squeal to and from the events, but they do dust quite a bit!