j0nathanl3e

Mine has a pretty high friction point as well..but then again it has over 80k on it.

SpitfireS

There is mechanical free-play, in the linkage etc. that can be reduced to almost 0.
The hydraulical free play should be there IMO.
A proper bleed and some fresh grease on the right parts makes the clutch like new.
IIRC there is a sticky by dbzerk about it.
"Sticky clutch"

animeS2K

a little OT, but would "sticky clutch" exist in a brand new slave?

How about squeaky clutch? Where to grease that?

I'm actually pretty sure it's got to do with the pedal actuation vs. the slave.

SpitfireS

IMO you need the stroke A to fully disengage the clutch.
So start by setting hight B and check stroke A.
Less stroke and you might not be fully disengaging the clutch resulting in rough shifting.
The same happens when there's air trapped in the rear of the slave (not a proper bleed), your pedal makes a full stroke but the slave doesn't.

#1 - bleed the clutch slave, to do that right its IMO best to remove the slave from the trans to get the rear pointed upwards to eliminate the chance of trapped air.
Start by filling the reservoir with fresh fluid.
Gravity bleed works very good.
You can also push the slave piston all the way in by hand to push almost all of the fluid (and air) out through the bleeder.
Close the bleeder before letting the piston come back out, that way the slave sucks in fresh fluid.
#2 - even new parts need grease so put enough on the ball-end piston rod (both ends ) and in the clutch fork cup & pivot point.
#3 - adjust the pedal to spec.
#4 - it should work
#5 - if it doesn't, redo from #1

GrandMasterKhan

props to SpitfireS for an excellent diagram!