freetors

That's why I always do my own alignments. So I know exactly what I have.

B serious

So...the most practical solution for the OP should be to either get a job at a shop that does alignments or buy an alignment rack? Lol

I print out my desired spec and take it to the shop. Numbers are less confusing than "negative camber maxes out too low". My head is spinning from the possibilities of what that means/what the customer wants.

Shigun

I'm wanting stock specs. The camber adjustment is not able to achieve that. It will get to a certain point (in this case, we are talking about up in camber camber) and then will reach a point where it "maxes" out and will not go any higher, instead it starts going back down.

To be specific, front left is -1.2*, front right is -0.9*. Trying to get to -0.5FL and -0.5FR

As well, right rear won't go any lower than -1.3* towards -1.5*

Slowcrash_101

If you're on coils, raise the car a bit. If not, then I would check the condition of all your suspension bushings. A lot of times people lower these cars and don't preload the bushings. When I bought my car, I thought hey great it's lowered I was going to do that anyway. Nope, it was on crappy generic coils and all the upper control arm bushings had tears in them. Now over 2 years later I finally fixed all that and got it the way I want.

I did many, many alignments on my car, more than I have fingers and toes, so many in fact that it taught me a lot about suspensions, and actually helped my find a job.

B serious

-1.3 degrees of camber is going to help more than it hurts anything. I'd leave it. If you absolutely want stock specs...maybe there's something wrong with the car, I suppose.

You sure you're lowered 1/2"?

B serious

Also...if your camber is negative, going lower in camber measurement would mean more negative. You sure the alignment tech understood what you wanted?

"Rear right won't go any lower than -1.3 towards -1.5" is what I'm referring to.

Shigun

Yeah, made sure to preload everything when installing the Koni yellows. I'll get under and check the condition of the bushings anyways since the car is, at this point, 12 years old and no telling what they look like now.


I'm on Koni yellows on the lower perch, which is 1/2" lower than stock. And yes, I'm positive the tech understood what I meant because we sat and watched as the camber went from -1.2 to -1.3 and back to -1.2, and discussed the reasonings for this.

Slowcrash_101

See here's the thing, if you want to max out camber, you have to max out both adjusters until they move the bottom of the knuckle out as far as possible. Once you do that, then set your toe by moving the adjusters in opposite directions. If both adjusters are in, your total camber will never get to where you need it. On this car each adjuster pivots one side of the knuckle, both need to be loose to align the knuckle properly for camber.

Shigun

Yep, I watched as the tech was doing the alignment, he had both adjusters loosened and was adjusting them simultaneously to get caster/camber then toe, per side

B serious

Using the lower perch on a Koni Yellow results in about .75" to 1" ride height change.

If there is a 0.5" change on the shock body, that results in a .75" change at the wheel. Add another small amount of change because you lose a little bit of spring pre-load by lowering the perch.