cam alignment question
#41
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Originally Posted by Soul Coughing,Dec 12 2007, 12:12 AM
the ECU does not allow it. However if you run an aftermarket ecu like EMS, it will run... ask me how i know...
#42
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Originally Posted by ShocK,Dec 11 2007, 11:45 PM
if it were one tooth off you wouldn't be able to turn it over by hand would you? or is there enough piston to valve timing there that the valve wont hit?
I'd take the plugs out, use a small ratchet and go slow, you'll feel if anything binds and you won't do any damage.
#43
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Yep. But from what I've heard (secondhand from a guy that's done some cam tuning), you have 10 degrees of play (or more) before you'd get valve to piston contact. If the cam gear teeth really do equate to about 6 degrees of timing, then theoretically you could be OK if you were off one tooth.
I'm not sure what the valve-to-valve clearances are like, though.
I'm not sure what the valve-to-valve clearances are like, though.
#44
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alright i backed the exhaust 1 tooth down, and left the idler gear the same, when i moved the crank pulley forward slightly like mxt's they lined up. so, i started the engine up and it fired up, no CELs and it idles exceptionally smooth. i've driven it atleast 50 miles and still no CELs. phew!!!
i'm still thinking about going back and removing the idler gear and re-adjusting it. Mine looks exactly like SC highlander's, where the top tooth isn't covered and that dot on the gear isn't on the same individual chain link as it is in the picture in the helms. also, like SC highlanders the right line is slightly higher then the left or should i just leave it? maybe i'm wrong, but i figure the idler gear is there to sync the cam gears with the crankshaft. so as long as the cams are properly sync'd with the crankshaft the idler gear position shouldn't matter as much.
thanks again for the help guys.
i'm still thinking about going back and removing the idler gear and re-adjusting it. Mine looks exactly like SC highlander's, where the top tooth isn't covered and that dot on the gear isn't on the same individual chain link as it is in the picture in the helms. also, like SC highlanders the right line is slightly higher then the left or should i just leave it? maybe i'm wrong, but i figure the idler gear is there to sync the cam gears with the crankshaft. so as long as the cams are properly sync'd with the crankshaft the idler gear position shouldn't matter as much.
thanks again for the help guys.
#45
Originally Posted by ShocK,Dec 12 2007, 12:25 AM
haha, no damage hopefully
My car wouldnt occasionally hit VTEC after the rebuild... i pulled the valve cover and saw one of the vtec solenoid pins just sitting in the top of the head.... When the cover was pulled, the intake and exhaust cams weren't aligned correctly either They were off by one tooth, and i ran it for 200 miles.
Other than doing a engine sleeving, i will never let anyone touch my car again. What took those idiots 2 weeks to fix (reinstall vtec pin and align cams) took me 2.5 hours to do on a friends car... and that included a valve adjustment as well!!
#46
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Originally Posted by Bigeggroll,Dec 12 2007, 09:22 PM
when i moved the crank pulley forward slightly like mxt's they lined up.
<snip>
i'm still thinking about going back and removing the idler gear and re-adjusting it. Mine looks exactly like SC highlander's, where the top tooth isn't covered and that dot on the gear isn't on the same individual chain link as it is in the picture in the helms. also, like SC highlanders the right line is slightly higher then the left or should i just leave it?
<snip>
i'm still thinking about going back and removing the idler gear and re-adjusting it. Mine looks exactly like SC highlander's, where the top tooth isn't covered and that dot on the gear isn't on the same individual chain link as it is in the picture in the helms. also, like SC highlanders the right line is slightly higher then the left or should i just leave it?
#47
Registered User
Originally Posted by Soul Coughing,Dec 12 2007, 07:45 PM
i was away from my home for 3 months and my headgasket blew. I decided to have a shop change my headgasket, they took forever and messed up multiple parts of the change....
My car wouldnt occasionally hit VTEC after the rebuild... i pulled the valve cover and saw one of the vtec solenoid pins just sitting in the top of the head.... When the cover was pulled, the intake and exhaust cams weren't aligned correctly either They were off by one tooth, and i ran it for 200 miles.
Other than doing a engine sleeving, i will never let anyone touch my car again. What took those idiots 2 weeks to fix (reinstall vtec pin and align cams) took me 2.5 hours to do on a friends car... and that included a valve adjustment as well!!
My car wouldnt occasionally hit VTEC after the rebuild... i pulled the valve cover and saw one of the vtec solenoid pins just sitting in the top of the head.... When the cover was pulled, the intake and exhaust cams weren't aligned correctly either They were off by one tooth, and i ran it for 200 miles.
Other than doing a engine sleeving, i will never let anyone touch my car again. What took those idiots 2 weeks to fix (reinstall vtec pin and align cams) took me 2.5 hours to do on a friends car... and that included a valve adjustment as well!!
#48
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Originally Posted by Bigeggroll,Dec 12 2007, 10:22 PM
i'm still thinking about going back and removing the idler gear and re-adjusting it.
The position of the colored links have no effect on the engine. They are only a guide.
If it's running, it's perfect. An S2000 engine will not fire if the cams are off.
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