Well, I got my AEM CAI and VAFC installed recently and took it to the shop to get some dyno tuning done. I was doing the tuning myself, and someone with more experience probably could've done a better job, but here's what I came up with.

baseline.003- My first baseline run (stock).
dynorun.009- My previous baseline w/ only the Toda SpecA v2 cams, Toda valvesprings, mild Port & Polish by Marcucci Motorsports, and Hondata Intake Manifold Insulator.
dynorun.012- Current dyno w/ AEM CAI installed, but no VAFC.
dynorun.023- Final dyno w/ AEM CAI, and "tuned" VAFC. Notice I have tuned in quotation marks, because there are definitely a couple of places which aren't perfect.

Over my previous baseline, the CAI & VAFC gave about 9hp peak, and quite a bit of gains on the high end, with a couple of good bumps around 3700 & 6200.

Over stock, I've gained a total of about 15hp peak and upwards of 20hp in some places nearing redline.

Previous baseline (w/ cams) vs. newly installed CAI:


CAI vs CAI+VAFC:


Stock vs Current setup:


Next on the wishlist is a Toda header.

 

nice numbers!

im waiting to get a header as well, not sure which though.

was the vafc worth it?

 

Probably. I actually expected to see a few hp gains just from the VAFC in the mid-range, but I couldn't ever pull anything out. Maybe a better tuner could. Also, a better tuner could probably take advantage of changing the VTEC crossover.

But, at least I was able to keep some of the power on the top end. That's definitely good. In first and second, it pulls much more like I imagine the '04s do. You end up crashing into the rev-limiter because the power doesn't drop off as quickly as it used to.

 

Pardon my ignorance here, but what is VFAC (please be kind, I only recently found out what CAI is).

Thanks,

Jim

 

V-AFC is a vtec controller and piggyback fuel management device. You can change VTEC engagement points and also add/remove fuel at certain RPM levels to your desired a/f ratio.

 

Hey, Mxt_77,

Maybe we can help each other out here. I run a 98% bone stock S2K motor in a Bonneville streamliner. Those are cars that are built for only one thing... top speed in a straight line. Now I've been thinking about putting cams and porting and some of the stuff you've done to see if I can get more ponies.

But when I run on a chassis dyno I easily get over 220 rwhp. Now, that is corrected hp, as I would imagine yours is also since raw numbers vary all over the place. I mean I ran on one dyno in L.A., basically sea level, and then did some work in Reno at 4200 feet, the same elevation as Bonneville. Raw numbers were way different but corrected was 225 at Reno and 230 in L. A.

Some differences that explain a little. I run super stiff Bonneville tires rated to over 300 mph, and run them at 70 psi so they don't deform at speed. I run a 2.56 rear end ratio, which might or might not have less drag. I run a home built exhaust system that is basically the stock four into 2 and then a "Y" pipe I made and about 18" of pipe to get the exhaust out of the car ASAP. Lastly I'm not smart enough to make a Honda ECU even start the motor so I threw it all away and went with an Electromotive TEC III which allows me to vary timing curves, fuel curves, whatever, all over the map. Only other thing is 0-30 weight Mobil One.

Now I know that there is a variance between dyno manufacturers of maybe a few percent, but still one would expect a cammed and ported motor to run stronger. Do you have a chart produced from a stock motor for comparison? It would help me a great deal, because I've seen a bunch of folks do things they claim are better, but the only real results I've seen are with some kind of blower and/or NOS.

Or am I just un-educated?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

BTW your fuel curve should be a lot straighter. I bet you can find some ponies in there. Trying pushing it more toward 11.7. I think that's where we made more power.

All the best,

Jim

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jimknapp
Now I know that there is a variance between dyno manufacturers of maybe a few percent, but still one would expect a cammed and ported motor to run stronger.

 

Jim, do you have an a/c compressor, alternator, and belt driven water pump?

 

Hi Chiung,

I just run a belt driven water pump but am thinking of going to an electric, although there is a strong component of, "If it's not broke...".

I run a little utility lawn mower battery, standard from Pep Boys, Kragens, whatever, and I have a set of alligator clips that I hook to it while my car is in the trailer between runs. It runs everything with no alternator, and I've made, I believe three passes once between chargings with no problems. A typical run would be starting two or three times, plus 95 seconds of full power, followed by about two minutes of coast down and "taxiing" around to the return road. Then start it up and drive it into the trailer.

But I may be a little off the topic in these threads. My car is a pure, from the ground up race car running a stock S2000 motor and transmission. Nothing else is Honda. Even the rear end is Chevrolet. The only time it is "on the ground" is when we're pushing to the line or running. Otherwise it's in the trailer. No extra chances for flat tires that way, no one accidentally backs into it, etc.

Daytona Beach, huh? If you're old enough you remember when that was THE scene for top speed. I think the record out there is over 275 MPH if I'm not mistaken, running south from Dunlawton Blvd. about 70 years ago. See http://www.news-journalonline.com/speed/sp...easuredmile.htm

And Mxt_77 I'm not going to argue with going leaner. Just don't throw out the notion of 11.7. The architecture of the motor says it should love lean, and with the lense shaped combustion chamber and dead center plug location you would REALLY have to push things to get pre-ignition. But we did make power down in the 11's. I just didn't have the time that day to do more dial in the last time I tried things. We actually spent about two hours on the dyno just getting the dern thing running. We did, however, make back to backs with 100 unleaded and 91. Now we were at 4200 feet, but there was no definitive difference.

And, yeah, your stock fuel curve is way prettier.

I'm going to start experimenting with a wide band O2 sensor so I can "pull" the fuel curve around a bit more. I'll let you know. For thread about O2 sensors see http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=171337

Keep your shiny side up both of you,

Jim

 

Thanks Jim, I'm not quite old enough, but living here for over 30 years I've picked up a lot of anecdotes about the beach speed scene. Of course racing on the beach is a no-no now, and if some selfish beachfront property owners get their way, driving on the beach will be gone soon, too.

Anyway, the reason I asked about the a/c compressor, water pump, and alternator is that, without any or all of those components, you would expect to see more rwhp than one of our "civilian" cars. That would explain the variance in dyno #'s you asked about. Out of curiousity, omitting the factory a/c, water pump, and alternator would change the class your run in?