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Buying torque wrenches 1 or 2?

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Old 05-23-2014 | 03:12 AM
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Default Buying torque wrenches 1 or 2?

Just about to purchase a 1/2" torque wrench for DIY servicing of engine/trans/diff fluids.

I've read that the gearbox needs a 3/8" one, is there a reason for this and is it necessary to get both a 3/8" and 1/2"?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I've been reading posts after posts but can't seem to find out the reason why there is a need for both. Maybe someone could point me in the right direction?
Old 05-23-2014 | 03:31 AM
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More important than the size of the drive is the range of the torque wrench. Torque wrenches specify a range and typically they aren't very accurate in the bottom 20% of their range so you want to avoid using a torque wrench in that region. For a variety of work on the car, one torque wrench doesn't really work on everything. I have three torque wrenches. I have one that measures 25 - 250 in-lb for smaller bolts, another one that is like 10 - 100 ft-lb for most chassis bolts like subframe, brake calipers, and lug nuts, and my largest torque wrench goes up to around 250 ft-lb for things like axle nuts and pulley bolts. My smallest torque wrench is a 3/8" drive and the other two are 1/2" drive. Yes the gear box drain bolt requires a 3/8" square drive to remove the bolt, but any 1/2" drive tool will work with a simple 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. You just need to make sure the torque value of that bolt (i think it's around 33 ft-lb) is in the accurate range of your torque wrench.
Old 05-23-2014 | 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Sylvan
More important than the size of the drive is the range of the torque wrench. Torque wrenches specify a range and typically they aren't very accurate in the bottom 20% of their range so you want to avoid using a torque wrench in that region. For a variety of work on the car, one torque wrench doesn't really work on everything. I have three torque wrenches. I have one that measures 25 - 250 in-lb for smaller bolts, another one that is like 10 - 100 ft-lb for most chassis bolts like subframe, brake calipers, and lug nuts, and my largest torque wrench goes up to around 250 ft-lb for things like axle nuts and pulley bolts. My smallest torque wrench is a 3/8" drive and the other two are 1/2" drive. Yes the gear box drain bolt requires a 3/8" square drive to remove the bolt, but any 1/2" drive tool will work with a simple 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. You just need to make sure the torque value of that bolt (i think it's around 33 ft-lb) is in the accurate range of your torque wrench.
ahh I see, thanks for that, really clears things up!
Old 05-23-2014 | 07:00 AM
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Don't skimp on the price. Cheap wrenches from a place like harbor freight are not going to be very accurate, and they will literally fall apart during normal use.
Old 05-23-2014 | 07:18 AM
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to the above posts.

I have two for the "range" issue. My go to one is an older Craftsman Microtork 1/2, quality made in USA, that, according to the paperwork, is =/- 4% on clockwise or right-handed readings greater or equal to 20% of capacity over the entire range. Model 44595. Range is 20-150 ft/lbs. I spent $80 years ago for it on sale. Its the "clicker" type. Its bulletproof.

I also bought on impulse a $10 3/8 clicker style from Harbor Freight that is 5-50 ft/lbs. Made in China. For me it works okay, especially for the price. Use it for the small stuff. I have read reviews that has these relatively accurate when they work. I would agree. I have compared it when I can to the Craftsman and it seemed spot on. Some folks don't have luck with them, many do.

I went on bought a few Craftsman adapters that allow the 1/2 to go 3/8 and so on so I can use the Microtork for most jobs. The fill bolt on the trainy is a tight fit so I use the Harbor Freight on that.
Old 05-23-2014 | 02:48 PM
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I have a number of torque wrenches, different sizes for different jobs. But as a minimum get a 3/8th drive wrench that goes from 0-20 ft lbs (0-250 inch lbs approx.) , and a 1/2 inch drive wrench that goes from 20 ft lbs to 150 ft lbs. That will address almost every job you will encounter. I don't trust 1/2 drive torque wrenches below 20 ft lbs, so I avoid going with one that goes form 0-150 ft lbs, and I use two different wrenches. Like Cosmomiller I like my Craftsmen wrenches , made in USA when I bought them, they seem very accurate and well made.

While one the subject of torque wrenches I'm trying to sell this baby. This is an old school dial wrench, you can measure tightening and loosening torque, probably one of the most accurate wrenches you can get. Made by S-K Tools and made in USA. I love the wrench but I just don't get around to using it much, I have about 5 torque wrenches in total. 0-250 ft lbs but it is accurate at all settings.

Old 05-23-2015 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Sylvan
For a variety of work on the car, one torque wrench doesn't really work on everything.
I agree and disagree.

It depends if you're a professional, work on cars every day and often, or you have more money to spend (then 2-3 wrenches would be great! A 5-75 and a 30-250 would be perfect!)

But if you're just a home mechanic that only occasionally wrenches on your S2000, wants to save money with buying only one wrench, mainly just does the basic maintenance and once in a while installs some new modifications/parts (coilovers, springs/dampers, other suspension bits, headers, exh, other engine bits, etc)...then 1 torque wrench can work very also.

Which size?

Imo, a 10-100 lbft is the best one to get, if you could only choose 1 high-quality wrench.

Some may say 20-150 is best for your single/only torque wrench. But, that will leave out a lot of basic regular maintanence: valve adjustments (14lbft), spark plugs (18lbft), and many other things.

Also, for the S2k, there are actually only 3 bolts on the car that require above 100 ftlbs of torque: crankshaft pulley bolt, rear wheel spindle/axle nut, and tranny output shaft locknut. All of which are jobs that are rarely done. When the time comes for those rare high-torque jobs, just go rent a higher torque wrench.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/500969-torque-specs/

For all the torques that are very small and <10 ftlbs, just carefully hand tighten it. It's too easy to break these light torqued bolts (esp on aluminum) by accident, even when using the correct torque specs. I've learned back then, that can't trust a huge clicker wrench for these weak bolts, esp with its' huge leverage from the really long handles. It's always safer to tighten by hand.

I've been using only a 10-100 Husky for more than 15 years now, with no problems and no need for higher torques (never ran into any high torque jobs, luckily)...mainly on family's and friend's Hondas, Toyotas and Nissans, for usual maintanence work and occasional mod parts installations. I finally retired that old wrench, and am planning to upgrade to a better premium brand... in 10-100 again
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Old 05-23-2015 | 06:28 PM
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I'm a nerd, I have 5 in total 3 snap on ones including a digital 3/8" one with light up leds it does 15-75ft lbs, a 1/4" that does 12-360 in-lbs and a 1/2" that's from the 80's that does 50-250 ft lbs. I got the old one for $60 and its still dead accurate. My other two are beam tq wrenches, one was my very first tq wrench so I keep it for sentimental reasons, the other is a bit fancy because it has a built in angle gauge.
Old 05-25-2015 | 09:54 AM
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I've got several, all Snap On, but the one I reach for the most is my QD2FR75. The flex comes in handy more than you would think.
Old 05-25-2015 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by chi.ted
I've got several, all Snap On, but the one I reach for the most is my QD2FR75. The flex comes in handy more than you would think.
Nice. Ya, I can see how a 5-75 would be used the most, because majority of maintenance stuff is within that range (except for wheel lugs). But I'd still need a 30-200 or 30-250 for the few higher torque things, like wheel lugs and suspension arms, etc.

For now I can afford 1 expensive premium wrench, so I'm getting the 10-100. But for sure I'd love two (5-75 & 30-250).



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