Buying preventative maintenance parts from HM - recommendations for my list?
09-19-2013, 10:32 AM
#11
Make sure you do your valve adjustment correctly (cold engine) if you're going to have it done. I'm not sure what order you were planning on going the compression/leakdown/valve adjustment. I would do the VA first because you need a cold engine, and them run it 'til it's warm and do a compression test. When you see that's fine, then you'll probably realize that doing a leakdown isn't really necessary.
Are you saying that if the compression test comes back good that there's really no need for a leak-down test?
09-19-2013, 11:41 AM
#12
Moderator
Ap2 will not suffer damage from a one gear mechanical over rev.
Reason 1, stronger retainers
Reason 2, 1000RPM lower than AP1 during over rev.
AP2 will hit 9700. No problem there.
AP1 will hit 10700. Big problem there.
Even if you did a two gear over rev, the retainers would be fine but the valves would be destroyed. So it wouldn't be running. The ap2 retainer strength is way beyond the RPM it takes to bend valves. You will not find damage to the retainers unless someone put ap1 retainers in there. Trust me
Running condition is no indication of retainer condition. They could be split severely, with the retainer grinding into the roller rocker and chewing up the cam, yet you will still show no symptoms at all (this doesn't apply to your AP2 anyway)
Reason 1, stronger retainers
Reason 2, 1000RPM lower than AP1 during over rev.
AP2 will hit 9700. No problem there.
AP1 will hit 10700. Big problem there.
Even if you did a two gear over rev, the retainers would be fine but the valves would be destroyed. So it wouldn't be running. The ap2 retainer strength is way beyond the RPM it takes to bend valves. You will not find damage to the retainers unless someone put ap1 retainers in there. Trust me
Running condition is no indication of retainer condition. They could be split severely, with the retainer grinding into the roller rocker and chewing up the cam, yet you will still show no symptoms at all (this doesn't apply to your AP2 anyway)
09-19-2013, 12:36 PM
#13
Ap2 will not suffer damage from a one gear mechanical over rev.
Reason 1, stronger retainers
Reason 2, 1000RPM lower than AP1 during over rev.
AP2 will hit 9700. No problem there.
AP1 will hit 10700. Big problem there.
Even if you did a two gear over rev, the retainers would be fine but the valves would be destroyed. So it wouldn't be running. The ap2 retainer strength is way beyond the RPM it takes to bend valves. You will not find damage to the retainers unless someone put ap1 retainers in there. Trust me
Running condition is no indication of retainer condition. They could be split severely, with the retainer grinding into the roller rocker and chewing up the cam, yet you will still show no symptoms at all (this doesn't apply to your AP2 anyway)
Reason 1, stronger retainers
Reason 2, 1000RPM lower than AP1 during over rev.
AP2 will hit 9700. No problem there.
AP1 will hit 10700. Big problem there.
Even if you did a two gear over rev, the retainers would be fine but the valves would be destroyed. So it wouldn't be running. The ap2 retainer strength is way beyond the RPM it takes to bend valves. You will not find damage to the retainers unless someone put ap1 retainers in there. Trust me
Running condition is no indication of retainer condition. They could be split severely, with the retainer grinding into the roller rocker and chewing up the cam, yet you will still show no symptoms at all (this doesn't apply to your AP2 anyway)
The 1% not-awesome is that I now have no use for the overhead valve compressor tool I just ordered
lolThanks again Billman! Saved me a bunch of time once again!
09-19-2013, 02:39 PM
#14
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I think the op has the tb gasket because he's chasing down an idle issue. I read a write-up somewhere that mentions removing the tb to access a port, or ports that get clogged.
I'd go ahead and check the leak down too. Why not, since you have the gear. It'll be nice to know what comp and leak down rate is to establish a base line for future diagnostics. And plus it's just a good learning experience while the vc is off.
Be mindful of the proper "drag" to feel for if this is your first valve job. You'll find that a few feelers will fit, but through experience only will you know what feels right. I had a mechanic buddy help me with my first time, which helped a lot. By no means am I trying to scare you though, valve jobs are easy to do, but getting them dead on takes just a little practice.
I wouldn't feel bad about all of those tools you bought. If you're going to be working on cars, especially s2000's, all of those will come in handy.
Good luck.
I'd go ahead and check the leak down too. Why not, since you have the gear. It'll be nice to know what comp and leak down rate is to establish a base line for future diagnostics. And plus it's just a good learning experience while the vc is off.
Be mindful of the proper "drag" to feel for if this is your first valve job. You'll find that a few feelers will fit, but through experience only will you know what feels right. I had a mechanic buddy help me with my first time, which helped a lot. By no means am I trying to scare you though, valve jobs are easy to do, but getting them dead on takes just a little practice.
I wouldn't feel bad about all of those tools you bought. If you're going to be working on cars, especially s2000's, all of those will come in handy.
Good luck.
09-19-2013, 02:48 PM
#15
I think the op has the tb gasket because he's chasing down an idle issue. I read a write-up somewhere that mentions removing the tb to access a port, or ports that get clogged.
I'd go ahead and check the leak down too. Why not, since you have the gear. It'll be nice to know what comp and leak down rate is to establish a base line for future diagnostics. And plus it's just a good learning experience while the vc is off.
Be mindful of the proper "drag" to feel for if this is your first valve job. You'll find that a few feelers will fit, but through experience only will you know what feels right. I had a mechanic buddy help me with my first time, which helped a lot. By no means am I trying to scare you though, valve jobs are easy to do, but getting them dead on takes just a little practice.
I wouldn't feel bad about all of those tools you bought. If you're going to be working on cars, especially s2000's, all of those will come in handy.
Good luck.
I'd go ahead and check the leak down too. Why not, since you have the gear. It'll be nice to know what comp and leak down rate is to establish a base line for future diagnostics. And plus it's just a good learning experience while the vc is off.
Be mindful of the proper "drag" to feel for if this is your first valve job. You'll find that a few feelers will fit, but through experience only will you know what feels right. I had a mechanic buddy help me with my first time, which helped a lot. By no means am I trying to scare you though, valve jobs are easy to do, but getting them dead on takes just a little practice.
I wouldn't feel bad about all of those tools you bought. If you're going to be working on cars, especially s2000's, all of those will come in handy.
Good luck.
09-19-2013, 03:05 PM
#16
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I'm 95% sure that if you have an idle air control valve problem (IACV), you can remove it and clean it without removing the throttle body. If that's the issue search for some posts on how to do it. If you have trouble searching on s2ki, use Google instead.
09-19-2013, 03:36 PM
#17
09-19-2013, 05:09 PM
#18
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yeah, that's the first and easiest route to try. there is supposedly a port in the tb that goes to the map and easily is clogged by carbon, but removing the tb is the only way to get to it, hence the new gasket. in the iacv cleaning write-up it's mentioned in the replies not the actual write-up itself.
i hope the op has some success, maybe it'll get my lazy ass to give it a try, haha. hopefully billman, or someone who's done this can chime in. i've only read about it and really haven't looked inside of my tb in almost a year now.
09-19-2013, 05:17 PM
#19
Originally Posted by dwight' timestamp='1379631909' post='22787397
I'm 95% sure that if you have an idle air control valve problem (IACV), you can remove it and clean it without removing the throttle body. If that's the issue search for some posts on how to do it. If you have trouble searching on s2ki, use Google instead.
yeah, that's the first and easiest route to try. there is supposedly a port in the tb that goes to the map and easily is clogged by carbon, but removing the tb is the only way to get to it, hence the new gasket. in the iacv cleaning write-up it's mentioned in the replies not the actual write-up itself.
i hope the op has some success, maybe it'll get my lazy ass to give it a try, haha. hopefully billman, or someone who's done this can chime in. i've only read about it and really haven't looked inside of my tb in almost a year now.
I'm most leaning toward the rectifier in my alternator so I'm in the market for one. I think what's happening is the rectifier is not able to sustain a stable voltage (dash lights flicker) which is causing the sensitive electronics (like the MAP, TPS, TDC, etc) to operate on an unstable power supply thereby causing a "rough idle." Now when I say rough idle, it's really not THAT rough... it just doesn't "purr like a kitten" like all my previous cars have. Basically the engine SOUNDS fine (99%)... but when I'm at a stoplight (especially with the A/C on) the cabin kinda "shimmies." Basically I can "feel" the engine kind of shaking. It's not a jostle or anything, just very mild.... but I still don't like it if it can be avoided. My AP1 didn't have this issue at all so I'm determined it can be fixed.
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