HondaGuy

After I lowered the s2k w/these springs, I measured the difference w/2000+ miles on them. Even though Eibach list it as a 1.0" drop, I noticed it was between a 0.6"-0.75" drop. Could it have some thing to do w/this note by Tire Rack (Where I got them from) in the notes/comments section for these springs on their website for the s2k application?

"Please note this installation is very sensitive to bushing "preloading". The suspension components should be tighened after the vehicle's weight is on the tires. Failure to do this will result in a lift."

A friend of mine who owns a local performance shop did the install, so I know it was installed correctly (He even said it was easier to install then Civic springs). How in the heck are you suppose to tighten the suspension components after "the vehicle's weight is on the tire"?

On a side note, for some reason when the s2k wasn't lowered yet, the wheel well gap was higher then 3-4 other local guys s2k's (all bone stock)...Any explanation for this? I don't think it's due to the Amuse tit. exhaust (Lightweight)...Is it? Thanks!

cdelena

I have posted this several times.. when reinstalling suspension components you need to support the corner of the car with the suspension (jack under lower arm) before torquing the fasteners. It is noted in the manual and makes a big difference in handling.

SilverSurfer

Chris please explain. I am very confused. I have taken off my shocks and springs many times without doing what you have said.

HondaGuy

Yes, I'm very confused too. Can you please go into a deeper explanation? Thanks!

cdelena

As it says in the manual, reassemble all components but don't fully torque the bolts. Then raise that corner of the car off the stand fully compressing the suspension (I use a block of wood to protect the castle nut) by jacking under the lower control arm. Then fully tighten all the nuts to proper torque spec. This is the only way to load the rubber bushings.. if you don't there will be a bushing load in the wrong direction that will affect handling.

SilverSurfer

Thanks Chris, I will redo all 4 corners this weekend. ? though, if you are just doing the shocks and not messing with the upper arms do you still need to compress the suspension prior to torqueing the upper and lower bolts for the shock?

cdelena

As long as you didn't loosen the arms the bushing would still be loaded.. but you would have had a hell of a time getting the shocks out without loosening them. That is why so many people think they need an army or a jack to push the arms down.. the bushing preload is there until they release it.

Prolene

If you disconnect the upper arms to get the shocks out and then tighten the bolts with the arms hanging down, the car will not only ride higher but feel somewhat as though it has urethane bushings. The bushings will be under twist after you let the car down. I know this from the school of hard knocks .

SilverSurfer

OK cool, on the rears I have no problem taking the shocks off without loosening the upper arms. In fact, with the Zeals I can remove the shocks without undoing the sway bar. I can not say the same for stock shocks though. On the fronts I do need to undo the upper arms. But I will preload all 4 corners this weekend just to make sure all is good. Thanks for the heads up.

johev

Ahhh!! I think this is the problem with the rear of my car. Had some work done, they replaced the rear sway bar and subframe and probably didn't load the bar or shocks....the handling seems squishy and the rear is all over the place...would that be it??