RevvHii

Hello everyone Im new to this forum and to s2000s in general. I am Selling my 07 STI to buy a AP2 s2000. Anyway Im in the process of selling the Scoob now so Id like to learn a bit about the S2000 before I get it. Im going to have quite a bit of cash left over after purchasing my s2k so im going to mod it . The purpose of the car is for daily driving, autoX, timeattack and maybe a few shows. I am planning on building it all motor because Ive owned turbo cars my whole life . Ive been searching for a while and came up with a few things but ill post my build up and you guys can help me out.

I would like to get around 275whp and be fairly reliable for those long hard track days.

I am thinking about getting the Inline Pro 2.7L or 2.5L stroker, and maybe 13:1 comp. what do you think of this? will i need race fuel?

-Some sort of ITB I was thinking of TWM because its only brand I really know other then bloxx.

-J's Racing Headers and Exhaust

-Are those expensive intake kits really worth it? like Js, or Mugen.

-Of course Ill spend some cash on a good tune. Which EM is perferd in the s2k comunity?

-Exedy clutch, some sort of lsd?

anyway im sure im forgetting a lot, im sure some people will flame me, but if your gona take your tiem to flame me you might as well take your time to help me out.

i dont know what to do with the head. and i read something about final drives, but I am clueless. Not new to cars in general, I had a 400 whp boosted integra built by a shop here in vegas. But pretty new to S2000's but I think its a great car for what Im trying to do.

B serious

Why do you have a 275hp goal in mind? That's a lot of power.

Why not just take the car to the track stock, see what it does, and then see what it still leaves you wanting. It's going to be faster around the track than your STi...as long as your STi was stock or close to stock.

It comes with an Exedy clutch and LSD....stock....so...

You can't have ITBs AND an intake. Choose one.

I think you're looking at building too much of a daily fixer/tuner. What you're thinking about with the engine isn't really practical for a street driven car.

It makes about 215whp allready. It weighs about 400lbs less than your STi. I had a post in another thread saying that based on crank HP, S2000s put are at 11.6lbs/hp. STis are at 11.xxlbs/hp as well. Not much of a power/weight ratio difference.

You're going to be surprised after driving the car and discovering that it handles better than your STi and accelerates pretty much in the same fashion (not from a stop, obviously).

Supercharge it if you want simple, effective, reliable horsepower gains. You don't NEED anything for those long hard track days. Mine sees one every 1k miles or so. Some are 1hr long in 90 degree heat.

It still runs like it's off the showroom floor.

R3DS2K

^^ runs like it was off the showroom floor? if not .. all of you guys drove like a grandma to break them in off the floor...

but like you said.. i would hit the track and improve what you dont like 1st

RevvHii

my sti has 27mm frotn sway 25mm rear endlinks tbe retune and lowered so it handes and accelerates pretty good. i want to run around 270hp because i have some money when i sell the sti and to tell you the truth the ap2s aand ap1s both seem slow as **** in my opinion. im a fairly good driver. i would do suspension first coilovers to start then see if i need sway bars or any types of subframe braces and strut bars (if they do anything for s200) and sorry i was not implying using itbs and a intake i was just seeing if theres a difference in highend tourque. i want to have a great mid- high powerband low end doesnt matter to me. Thanks for input

EVAN&MONICA

for thinking ahead hope you get your S soon! 2.7L with ITBs makes me maybe gears too
welcome to the boards

negcamber

Good luck with hitting 275whp and have reliable. You might send a PM to 4bang6. He's got a 2.7 InlinePro with 13:1 compression. He was able to get 260whp on pump gas. You might be able to get to 270whp on race gas and some timing. I think he's got 15-20k miles on the motor. And in that time he's been through 5-6 starters and a few timing chain tensioners due to the high compression and higher oil pressure.

FFSkip has/had a 2.5 InlinePro on a track car...it's been pretty reliable but it was only putting down 240whp.

ITBs haven't been shown to raise the max hp by that much. They do give a meatier mid-range though.

AEM EMS is probably the most popular. There are better options, but they are all more expensive in the end with not much improvement on the AEM EMS.

We already have a Torsen LSD, but you might want to look at a PuddyMod reinforced diff since the oem carrier end-caps are known for breaking.

The head already flows better than any other from Honda and appears to use swirl quite a bit. Your average port & polish will destroy the swirl...many who have done an average port & polish have found they either don't make hp or actually lose some. I only know of 2 shops who can do work on the s2k head and actually have it make more power...usual wait time to get a head done by either shop is 6-12 months.

Honestly though...you will spend a lot of money to build up to 275whp and for the same money you could have 600+whp turbo s2k. And for the money you would spend to get reliable 240whp, you could have reliable 300-350whp with SC or small turbo.

a_zepeda926

^I think his point is to have an all motor car. 270 does seem like a pretty high expectation though, but then again it all depends on how fat your wallet is.

negcamber

I definitely got that...but most folks with less than 1 week on this forum usually have no clue that the F20/22 isn't like most other motors delivered from a manufacturer. They don't realize that they will spend $15-20k to get +65whp because that's how little Honda left on the table in this motor.

They think this is like every other motor out there where you can add a i/h/e for $2k and make +30-40whp.

a_zepeda926

i completely agree with you.

I also think you should buy the car, and take it 1 step at a time, rather than just buying all kinds of parts at once.

LostMotion

I am basically on the same path you are. I am not quite half way there in terms of power to the wheels, but about 90% there in terms of time and effort. You can check out my thread in my signature to get some more details. There is a bit of a breakpoint in trying to get over about 260-65 whp and the cost will go up dramatically to get above that number. But I'm sure I'll get to 260 whp area. You will need to completely rebuild the motor top to bottom to get to 270 whp and above.

Before diving into the details lets establish a baseline. Stock AP2 is about 205-210 whp on a dynojet. We will call it 208. Now I have never had my car dyno'd on a Jet since my tuner uses a dynopack. A stock AP2 dynos 237 hp on a his particular Pack. This implies a 12% loss. Now people can quibble over 5 whp here or there but this is a good estimate. I recently dyno'd 258 on this dyno which would imply 227 WHP. So I have 33 to go to get to my goal.

Now I will take you through what I have done and the next steps so you can see how this will be achieved.

- Mugen intake. This intake is probably costing me 3 WHP over an AEM CAI. I meant to test this last time at the tuner but there was a family emergency. Next time.
- J's throttle body. This made 3-5 WHP peak.
- Hondata intake manifold gasket. Couple HP maybe, it keeps the IM cooler which directly impacts power.
- AP1 intake cam, AP2 exhaust cam and Toda cam gears. The way I have the gears setup right now they are not helping my peak too much but are really helping my mid-range. The AP1 intake cam is providing some peak WHP, perhaps 3ish.
- J's header. This is pretty much the best header right now.
- 4" High flow race cat with 70mm tubing.
- 70mm exhaust. I have an ASM exhaust which may cost me 1-2 hp over a straighter setup.
- AEM EMS.

As you can see I have pretty much tapped the bolt-ons for everything they are worth. There are some experimental cams made by Hytech out there that could help but they aren't readily available. Toda makes some cams, the SpecA2s which may pick up a couple HP, but it's hard to say. They are used in every crate motor in Japan without exception, but who knows. So anyway, this is what you can expect from the full bolt-on treatment, about 230 WHP assuming you use a CAI. Now every dyno is different and some people have pulled 225 whp on a Jet with less mods than I have.

From here you need to get to work on the head and the intake manifold. These are the last two easily modified components where you can make some power. I have sent a head and a stock intake manifold to ENDYN, an infamous B18 head and crate motor shop to get some work done. The head will get the full port and polish treatment plus the chambers will be welded to bump compression to 12:1. I am not 100% sure what will be done with the intake manifold but the expectation is for near ITB mid-range with more top end then ITBs. The head will flow nearly 25% more air then stock (about 80+ CFM more), minimum. This has been done already on another members head.

These two mods together should provide 30 to 35 more WHP. Roughly 10 WHP from the compression bump, and 20-25 from the intake manifold and head work. That will get you to the 260-65 range you are looking for.

Now if you want more than that, it can be achieved. You would sleeve the block so you can expand the bore by 3mm. This will raise the capacity to about 2.3L, but that isn't the reason for the change. The reason is that the flow into the chamber is bore constrained. If you are going to sleeve the block you will need new pistons of course, so you can bump the compression to the 12.5 to 13:1 area. Once you're here you could benefit greatly from some new cams. If you find the right set, either custom made from ENDYN or from Hytech. With this setup you could make 350 to the crank which will be damn near 290 WHP, but the mid-range will also look better than the cheaper option above.

Now the costs to get to 290 whp level are going to be much higher as you can see from all the additional parts involved. You may even have to send an entire motor to ENDYN for them to do this work.

If you want to go above that level, you can do so as well. But, you are talking about a motor that will have a shorter lifespan and will be more of a race motor. What you want to do is bore out the F20 motor so it's a 2.1 liter and rev the daylights out of it.

Now a lot of what I wrote above goes against the grain of stroking a motor which seems to be the approach you are thinking of taking. I am not going to get into a debate of the relative merits of stroking a motor because it's like debating politics. Factually speaking, stroking is a relatively easy way to increase power from a technical point of view which is why many companies make stroker kits. Increasing head flow and optimizing the intake manifold is very very hard to get right and like someone else said only a couple of people (forget shops, it's literally a couple of people) in the country can really do it right. You can a stroker kit on your doorstep in a week, but a work of art cylinder head will take nearly a year.

Hope this helps somewhat.