GaryRudolph

Just getting ready to install a set of Buddy Club Racing Spec coil overs that I've been procrastinating on. One problem... All the documentation is in Japanese, and these are the first coil overs I've ever had I was hoping for some advice on the following:

1) Are the shipped preloads ok, or do we need to muck with that? I'm assuming they come preset for the S, but... we all know what assuming does...
2) Which direction is more/less dampening when turning the "clickers". If someone says 7, from what reference?
3) Anyone know of any remote adjusters similar to what Tein has that would work on the Buddy Club? It's a real PITA to have to pull out my amp and phatbox to adjust the rear compression.
4) Any good recommendations for settings for street and/or track?

Thanks in advance!
Gary

mhaileyj

Gary,
I installed a set of Tein RA on my S and a set of BC on Kekoa's. The preload is fine, no need to mess with that. I would recommend going back 7 or 8 clicks from full clockwise(stiff) front and back and go from there. Just remove the stock units and put in the BCs. The most important part is preloading the suspension and torqueing everything to spec. Do the ride height last.

BC does not have a remote dampening system like Tein. Even if you have Teins the remote controlled dampening units will not fit(I called Tein and asked). Hope this helps.

Note this is John_Z. I posted using my girlfriend's login by accident

JL9000

Turning clockwise will increse stiffness.

Run 0/0 for now and let the dampers break-in for a weeek or so before using stiffer settings.

KIDS2000

Frist 100kms drive on softest settings very slowly.
next 300km, drive on softest settings without thrashing too much.
next 300km, drive on any prefered settings, but don't go to the hardest lot.
Drive around town usually...don't push too hard.
then after the 700km, make to mid range settings, and do a FULL stroke work out. Full brakeing, full acceleration, full roll, etc etc etc...

This will stop the dampers from hardeneing up.
From there its up to you.

To make things perfect, an allignment AFTER the 700km is suggested.
this procedure was recommended from a suspension speciallist @ Jap that installed my friend Cusco Zero2 suspension in his mx5...he does full hardcore racing so he doesn't BS

jyeung528

[QUOTE]Originally posted by mhaileyj
Gary,
...The preload is fine, no need to mess with that.

GaryRudolph

Will follow and do final torque with weight on the suspension. Wasn't planning to, but that has a lot of merit to help settle the suspension.

Didn't think there was much chance of a remote adjuster... Guess, just better get used to opening that up.

Never would have thought about the break in on a low setting. That helps a lot. Although, probably isn't an issue, as I'm just finishing up my Vortech install and would be taking it easy to shake that out also. Some good guidelines. Particularly, about working the way up from softest settings.

Also, doing another alignment after break isn't an issue. It's a low cost to pay to help do the final tweak to help with handling and save tires.

GaryRudolph

FYI, really appreciate the advice. Was a little worried about diving in with no experience on coil overs. Much appreciated!

GaryRudolph

I think John_Z/mhaileyj is referring to putting weight on the suspension before a final torque, so that the suspension is torqued in a position that is at rest when the car is off the jacks when he is speaking of preloading. Not actually adjusting the preload of the coil over itself.

Gernby

I haven't ever heard of a break-in period for dampers. I know I didn't follow any sort of procedure after installing my JICs.

Gernby

If anything I did the exact opposite. I set them to full stiff, and drove around on bumpy roads to help them settle in before tweaking the ride height.