broken oil squirters on drain bolt
#1
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So as some of you know I just built a 2.4L motor. Anyways long story short, I have about 800 miles on the motor and I'm on my 3rd oil change. Still using 5w30 conventional oil. Anyways, I go to pull the magnetic drain bolt off only to find 2 broken oil squirters attached to it. Am I screwed? I read somewhere that they are used to cool down pistons and are not "needed". I'm on my way back to the engine builder. Please give me some good news!
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#2
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The 2.4L stroker kit does not allow you to retain the oil squirters and most guys end up blocking them off. Your builder needs to do his homework better and looks like he's going to be taking the pan off again in the least to plug them up for you. Hopefully the piston skirts and cylinder walls aren't damaged as well from the debris, otherwise it looks like he owes you a new motor as well.
#3
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Thanks yeah we just talked. He initially had them in and they were hitting the pistons so he tried to clearance them by bending them slightly. He thinks they probably broke because he may have bent them too much. I'm going to remove the pan over the weekend and maybe pry the other two off. They also said they usually Remo e them on stroker or high hp builds because most guys want to keep the oil pressure up.
#5
#7
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With aftermarket forged internals, it's not as critical to have oil squirters as it is with the stock internals due to them being better at heat dissipation. Obviously there still may be some sort of longevity issues by removing them, but I can't say for sure as I don't have any hard data as far as a motor with them removed that has reached X miles. To the OP, I wouldn't just go in there and snap them off. If you're not effectively using them, you are losing oil pressure for essentially no reason. Buy the CNC Speedshop block off kit and gain a little oil pressure which will only help cushion your bearings just that much better.
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#9
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That's another option, however, you're much more likely to have issues down the road due to imbalance once the pistons and sleeves wear in. That near perfectly balanced piston is balanced no more and will start wearing on one skirt more than the other messing up the sleeve with it. Piston slap will get worse and worse to the point of metal transfer between the two, eventually destroying the motor. The proper way would've been to mill just enough off the entire skirt (if you're confident there is enough skirt left to do so), or to re-balance the piston on the other side by making a similar machined section, to balance out both halves of the piston on the wrist pin.
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