Broken front subframe bolt- easiest way to remove?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Broken front subframe bolt- easiest way to remove?
OK, so I'm working on another board members S2k, to repair a whining tranny, which apparently had the Hulk do the last clutch job. That or Edward Impacthands. At any rate, the front 2 subframe bolts were hard coming out. I stopped, removed the access plugs from the frame, and soaked them in WD40. That helped but they were still tough coming out. I took a chance on a larger breaker bar and got bitten- one broke off, and I'm guessing the other one will if I keep pushing it.
The bolt broke off flush with the body, leaving perhaps 2-3" of bolt inside.
So... who has had this happen? What was the resolution? I'm guessing I have a couple of options:
1) Try and drill it out with the subframe on the car. With the subframe in place this will be difficult but perhaps not possible. I'll have to be careful and hopefully not destroy the threads while drilling, and can possible clean the hole with a tap and be OK. I may have to duplicate this process on the other bolt that's acting stuck as well.
2) Remove the other bolt, remove the trans, pull the motor, remove the suspension, and remove the subframe. This should get me a much better "approach" and make it much easier to drill out the bolt. I'm more confident in this method allowing me to drill and retap and be OK.
3) If all else fails... remove the bolts/trans/motor/subframe and proceed to cut out and replace the affected frame rail in front. I'd REALLY like to avoid this for obvious reasons. So would the owner.
For reference, the bolts in question are #10 in this pic:
The frame rail that the bolt threads into is #29 in this pic:
I am thinking that an EZ-out/extractor is out of the question since I was having to apply probably 160 ft-lbs of torque to move the bolt. It's hard to say, but I know I was putting probably 2x torque what they are torqued to, or about 2x what lug nuts go on with. Maybe more. An extractor will just shatter at that torque.
Any and all help is appreciated!!!
The bolt broke off flush with the body, leaving perhaps 2-3" of bolt inside.
So... who has had this happen? What was the resolution? I'm guessing I have a couple of options:
1) Try and drill it out with the subframe on the car. With the subframe in place this will be difficult but perhaps not possible. I'll have to be careful and hopefully not destroy the threads while drilling, and can possible clean the hole with a tap and be OK. I may have to duplicate this process on the other bolt that's acting stuck as well.
2) Remove the other bolt, remove the trans, pull the motor, remove the suspension, and remove the subframe. This should get me a much better "approach" and make it much easier to drill out the bolt. I'm more confident in this method allowing me to drill and retap and be OK.
3) If all else fails... remove the bolts/trans/motor/subframe and proceed to cut out and replace the affected frame rail in front. I'd REALLY like to avoid this for obvious reasons. So would the owner.
For reference, the bolts in question are #10 in this pic:
The frame rail that the bolt threads into is #29 in this pic:
I am thinking that an EZ-out/extractor is out of the question since I was having to apply probably 160 ft-lbs of torque to move the bolt. It's hard to say, but I know I was putting probably 2x torque what they are torqued to, or about 2x what lug nuts go on with. Maybe more. An extractor will just shatter at that torque.
Any and all help is appreciated!!!
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Bethesda, MD
Posts: 818
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Found it, but not much of a solution, may want to try to ask the OP at that thread on what they did.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry14905526
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry14905526
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Already checked- he hasn't had it fixed yet. Given that there are 6 I think you can safely drive on 5. Problem is, the car I'm working on has a bad trans whine which will need to be repaired sooner or later. And the owner is in this for the long haul, he loves his S and doesn't want to sell it. He has a lot invested in it.
Otherwise, my recommendation might be to sell.
I've found two posts on this subject, and I've messaged both. Cdelena was the other one and he had the dealer repair it. He hasn't gotten back to me, but based on what I've read and heard I think they may have actually replaced the frame rail the bolt threads into.
Otherwise, my recommendation might be to sell.
I've found two posts on this subject, and I've messaged both. Cdelena was the other one and he had the dealer repair it. He hasn't gotten back to me, but based on what I've read and heard I think they may have actually replaced the frame rail the bolt threads into.
#6
Former Moderator
That's an entire car full of Fail..
You car try the drill and extract method but, the threads in the body will most likely still be damaged. Unfortunately that is rally the only option that may save the threads in the body. Re tap the threads and hope there is enough material to save it.
The Non S2k's I've dealt with for this I cut a hole in the body across from the stripped threads. This only works if the body has a captive nut, which I don't believe the S2K's use.
You car try the drill and extract method but, the threads in the body will most likely still be damaged. Unfortunately that is rally the only option that may save the threads in the body. Re tap the threads and hope there is enough material to save it.
The Non S2k's I've dealt with for this I cut a hole in the body across from the stripped threads. This only works if the body has a captive nut, which I don't believe the S2K's use.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jan 21 2010, 06:15 PM
The Non S2k's I've dealt with for this I cut a hole in the body across from the stripped threads. This only works if the body has a captive nut, which I don't believe the S2K's use.
I may be able to find someone with a donor section I can cut out and then splice in. That might be the cleanest way to do it. Otherwise I'm going to weld in some similar plate with a proper nut welded on the backside.
Trending Topics
#9
Originally Posted by marcucci,Jan 21 2010, 05:06 PM
...
I've found two posts on this subject, and I've messaged both. Cdelena was the other one and he had the dealer repair it. He hasn't gotten back to me, but based on what I've read and heard I think they may have actually replaced the frame rail the bolt threads into.
...
I've found two posts on this subject, and I've messaged both. Cdelena was the other one and he had the dealer repair it. He hasn't gotten back to me, but based on what I've read and heard I think they may have actually replaced the frame rail the bolt threads into.
...
#10
I guess you have to remove the subframe completly for full access. Unfortunatly I cannot see the attached pictures so I have just a clue where your stucked bolt is located.
After removing the subframe you should heat the rest of the bolt with a torch. Wait until the heat is transferred into the nut.
Then cool the bolt with water so that it shrinks. The nut should be still hot.
Then try to move the boltshaft with a big claw. Move fore and back. It takes time but it works.
After removing the subframe you should heat the rest of the bolt with a torch. Wait until the heat is transferred into the nut.
Then cool the bolt with water so that it shrinks. The nut should be still hot.
Then try to move the boltshaft with a big claw. Move fore and back. It takes time but it works.