IBPrograming

So after I got back from the last Autocross in Greenville TN, I noticed that my car was leaking oil, it appeared to be coming from my "home made" (with parts from Home Depot) oil pressure sensor Tee. I reach down to see if it was loose and it broke off in my hand (part of the brass remaining in the block of course). So I get an easy-out to remove the brass tube. I started turning it with the little hand handle, using my (apparently super human strength) fingers, the easy-out broke off even with the side of the block. So I said fine, off to the dealer, had the car taken to the Honda dealer... they estimated AT LEAST $2,000 to remove the easy-out. Yes that's right $2K, so I brought the car back home. If I can't get it out, I'm thinking I just JB-Weld or epoxy the area (seal it up) and just keep an eye on my oil level.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what I might do to get it out?

Thanks,
Bradley

xviper

I've never seen or heard of this happening - snapping off the thing you sent in to get the thing that snapped off in the first place. When you say "easy-out", are you talking about those Sears things that look like a reverse drill bit? I have those and I can't imagine they're brittle enough to snap off. Or are you talking about those things that looks like a reverse corkscrew drill bit? If it's big enough in diameter, do you think you can use a smaller regular drill bit and drill a hole in the center of the easy-out? You might luck out and as the drill bit gets into the easy-out, it could "bite" and you could slowly unscrew the easy-out. If you can get this far, then find a screw extractor (the reverse cork-screw like drill bit). Spray Liquid Wrench to help the brass bit work free and try the extractor.
This very thing happened to me, but I was lucky. The extractor worked like a charm.
Keep in mind that the brass fitting is tapered. The harder and further you screwed it in, the harder it holds.

ps. If and when you get this fixed, run a steel flex hose from the block and mount all "T's" and other sensors at the end of the hose. This reduces the amount of weight and fatigue on the fitting that goes into the block.

Slows2k

You'll be hard pressed to drill the center of an easy-out, they are case hardened, and resist drilling just like stainless steel. The next problem your going to run into is getting enough clearance with a drill, A right angle drill would most likely be required.

If you can centerpunch the easy out and get a drill to start on center, You may be able to use a left handed drill and a reverse spiral screw extractor to get it out. getting the drill to start is going to be the most difficult part.

I couldn't bring myself to JB welding up the oil pressure port on a VERY expensive engine.

I'm guessing the fitting broke because It was too long/too much weight hanging on the block, and you used a 1/8NPT adapter instead of as 1/8BSP adapter.

chris_barry

Those brass adapters are always breaking.

Some options to consider.

1.Get a thread repair/broken tap specialist involved. A good one should have a tool called a disintegrator. The one I've seen uses a long spring loaded rod which they use to apply DC current to the tap. They use a electrolytic fluid and over 1/2 hour or so it dissolves the broken tap away.

2. Get a small drill and drill two holes in the brass between the broken tap and aluminum block. Drill the holes all the way through the brass 180 degrees apart. This allows the brass to collapse into the hole. You will need to carefully pick out swarf from the hole and spin the engine over so oil flushes the hole clean.

3. Get a steel nut which fits over where the tap is. Don't worry if the nut is loose, or if its a few mm away from the tap. Tig weld a stalactite from the back of the tap and fill in the inside of the nut with weld filler. When it has cooled from red, but is still pretty hot you should be able to grab with with pliers and remove it.

I would try 2, then 3 or 1 depending on the thread repair guys near you.

Also, in future try to use the square cross section ease outs rather than the corkscrew style. Also suggest remote mounting oil pressure T pieces at the end of some braided line.

Good luck

Chris,