Break-in Service at 1,500 Miles
12-13-2007, 01:38 PM
#1
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Break-in Service at 1,500 Miles
I recently replaced both my tranny and rear differential oils at 1,500 miles (waiting until the factory recommended interval for the oil) as a break-in service and wanted to share my experience with you guys. First of all, anyone who thinks that a break-in service is unecessary should seriously reconsider! Please read on to see why...
Tranny:
Replaced with new Honda MTF (P/N 08798-9031A) and Spoon magnetic drain plug (from A&J Racing). Since I have an '07, I think this is the same fluid that was already in there.
There was not very many metallic particles in the tranny oil (almost none at all actually) and the fluid was still really clear. The car feels pretty much the same after the fluid change. Changing the tranny fluid as a break-in can probably be more optional based on the lack of metal particles in the drained fluid.
Rear Diff:
Replaced with Redline 75W-90 and J's Racing Magnetic drain plug (I know, the stock drain plug is already magnetic, why'd I do this...read on to find out). I also picked this up from A&J Racing.
The first thing I noticed when draining the stock rear differential oil was that it was completely black from all the metal particles! There was a thick layer of metallic crud on stock magnetic drain plug as well. I would seriously recommend any S2K owner doing the break-in service on their rear diff because of this. I also used the J's Racing magnetic drain plug instead of stock because it uses a ridiculously strong magnet (besides, it's very pretty anodized aluminum
). The stock drain plug barely stuck to a metal wall while the J's Racing one practically flew out of my hand to attach to the metal wall! I figure, with all metallic particles floating around in there, it will pull more of it out of the fluid.
Quick Summary:
*Tranny break-in service probably a good idea but not absolutely necessary.
*Rear diff break-in service highly recommended due to the high number of metallic particles found in only 1,500 miles!
*Use magnetic drain plugs! They keep more the metallic pieces out of the fluid and on your drain plug instead.
Anyway, wanted to share my experience with you guys. I'm loving my S so far!
Tranny:
Replaced with new Honda MTF (P/N 08798-9031A) and Spoon magnetic drain plug (from A&J Racing). Since I have an '07, I think this is the same fluid that was already in there.
There was not very many metallic particles in the tranny oil (almost none at all actually) and the fluid was still really clear. The car feels pretty much the same after the fluid change. Changing the tranny fluid as a break-in can probably be more optional based on the lack of metal particles in the drained fluid.
Rear Diff:
Replaced with Redline 75W-90 and J's Racing Magnetic drain plug (I know, the stock drain plug is already magnetic, why'd I do this...read on to find out). I also picked this up from A&J Racing.
The first thing I noticed when draining the stock rear differential oil was that it was completely black from all the metal particles! There was a thick layer of metallic crud on stock magnetic drain plug as well. I would seriously recommend any S2K owner doing the break-in service on their rear diff because of this. I also used the J's Racing magnetic drain plug instead of stock because it uses a ridiculously strong magnet (besides, it's very pretty anodized aluminum
). The stock drain plug barely stuck to a metal wall while the J's Racing one practically flew out of my hand to attach to the metal wall! I figure, with all metallic particles floating around in there, it will pull more of it out of the fluid.Quick Summary:
*Tranny break-in service probably a good idea but not absolutely necessary.
*Rear diff break-in service highly recommended due to the high number of metallic particles found in only 1,500 miles!
*Use magnetic drain plugs! They keep more the metallic pieces out of the fluid and on your drain plug instead.
Anyway, wanted to share my experience with you guys. I'm loving my S so far!
12-13-2007, 02:25 PM
#2
Moderator
Agree on initial dif fluid change. Mine came out like black paint at 4k miles. I believe a dif fluid service within the first 2-4 k miles is the key to a long lasting dif. I've got 85k.
Since then, I've used Mobil1 75W90 for 30k intervals. Even after track days and auto crosses, AND countless clutch dumps and drifting, the fluid comes out as clean as the day I put it in.
Since then, I've used Mobil1 75W90 for 30k intervals. Even after track days and auto crosses, AND countless clutch dumps and drifting, the fluid comes out as clean as the day I put it in.
12-13-2007, 02:33 PM
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There was another poster a couple of months ago with the same experience. The diff volume is pretty small and the worm drive places a lot of metal in contact.
The factory magnet is probably a normal magnet. The J's is probably neodymium iron boron (NIB) magnets. You can just buy these: http://www.forcefieldmagnets.com/catalog/i...6a9dd64026eb34e for almost nothing..
The factory magnet is probably a normal magnet. The J's is probably neodymium iron boron (NIB) magnets. You can just buy these: http://www.forcefieldmagnets.com/catalog/i...6a9dd64026eb34e for almost nothing..
12-13-2007, 02:56 PM
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When I had my car in to get the top fixed I asked them to change the diff fluid (11,000 km)
The test drove it, said it was fine, and didnt change it.
Is this something easy to DYI? Im not very mechanically inclined but dont mind learning
The test drove it, said it was fine, and didnt change it.
Is this something easy to DYI? Im not very mechanically inclined but dont mind learning
12-13-2007, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TraviS2K,Dec 13 2007, 06:56 PM
When I had my car in to get the top fixed I asked them to change the diff fluid (11,000 km)
The test drove it, said it was fine, and didnt change it.
Is this something easy to DYI? Im not very mechanically inclined but dont mind learning
The test drove it, said it was fine, and didnt change it.
Is this something easy to DYI? Im not very mechanically inclined but dont mind learning
and you will need a jack, and torque wrench
12-14-2007, 08:12 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the tips on the magnets guys...that's a good idea to use my stock magnetic drain plug in the fill hole. I'm also going to pickup some of those NIB magnets and make my own (stronger) magnetic drain plugs for the tranny and oil.
Yes, this is a very easy procedure as it's just 2 bolts. You will also need a hand pump to pump the new rear diff oil in. Also, be prepared with the correct size sockets and wrenches. The drain plug is a 24mm (socket accessible) and the fill plug is a 23mm (accessible by wrench only). Torque both bolts to 34 lb-ft when done. AND, please do not get under your car unless your car is properly supported (i.e., jack stands or a lift).
A DIY should be available here. If not, I can write more detailed instructions.
s this something easy to DYI? Im not very mechanically inclined but dont mind learning
A DIY should be available here. If not, I can write more detailed instructions.
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12-15-2007, 09:43 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by Mrfixit687,Dec 14 2007, 09:24 PM
i can access the diff fill plug with my snapon 23mm socket and matco wrench 
Right tools for the job are definitely needed!
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