Break in the 2.5L inlinepro engine
#41
thanks Matt
Currently my exhaust tips are complety black, since I started to do the break in process because the excess of fuel.
For NA cars A/F must be stoich, 14.7 or Lambda =1 at full throttle, at high rpm,s for precuation, some tuners and manufacter leaves it to 14 A/F.
At normal driving some time the AF goes up for instants while the ECU responses.
I am not passing 4000 rpm and throttle position never pass 50% and most of the time I am well below 50%.
I think I will finish this week the break in process and will change the oil and filter, injectors.
Sean will come on the 18th of May
Juan
Currently my exhaust tips are complety black, since I started to do the break in process because the excess of fuel.
For NA cars A/F must be stoich, 14.7 or Lambda =1 at full throttle, at high rpm,s for precuation, some tuners and manufacter leaves it to 14 A/F.
At normal driving some time the AF goes up for instants while the ECU responses.
I am not passing 4000 rpm and throttle position never pass 50% and most of the time I am well below 50%.
I think I will finish this week the break in process and will change the oil and filter, injectors.
Sean will come on the 18th of May
Juan
#42
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this motor likes to run rich or mine liked to at least. that being said my motor doesnt see A/F ratios above 14 almost ever.
by the way soon enough your tips wont be the only thing black
by the way soon enough your tips wont be the only thing black
#43
Registered User
You do not want stoich at full throttle. This will cost you power, increase temps and increase the risk of detonation. Stoichiometric is best for fuel economy and pollution. While every car is different, you basically want to be near stoich up to about 5"-8" of vacuum (700-800 mbar absolute) and then trend down to your full throttle mixture, which should be in the 12.5-13.5 range depending upon your car, O2 sensor, etc. (that's for NA, FI should be richer still).
UL
UL
#44
Originally Posted by ultimate lurker,Apr 28 2005, 03:23 AM
You do not want stoich at full throttle. This will cost you power, increase temps and increase the risk of detonation. Stoichiometric is best for fuel economy and pollution. While every car is different, you basically want to be near stoich up to about 5"-8" of vacuum (700-800 mbar absolute) and then trend down to your full throttle mixture, which should be in the 12.5-13.5 range depending upon your car, O2 sensor, etc. (that's for NA, FI should be richer still).
UL
UL
I thought that AF for FI were 12 and NA 14.7
#45
Juan,
where are you measuring the AF? What do you use to measure?
what rev have you taken the car up to?
What kind of road have you been using to break the car in?
Stock car AF ratio is around 12-12.5 in late vtec range.
14.7 is high but not that bad in low rev and flat road. The measuring device is sometimes not accurate too. I know mine isn't accurate. So don't worry too much. If you get too concern run the car with some higher octane rating fuel.
where are you measuring the AF? What do you use to measure?
what rev have you taken the car up to?
What kind of road have you been using to break the car in?
Stock car AF ratio is around 12-12.5 in late vtec range.
14.7 is high but not that bad in low rev and flat road. The measuring device is sometimes not accurate too. I know mine isn't accurate. So don't worry too much. If you get too concern run the car with some higher octane rating fuel.
#46
Originally Posted by honda9krpm,Apr 28 2005, 09:35 AM
where are you measuring the AF?
What do you use to measure?
what rev have you taken the car up to?
What kind of road have you been using to break the car in?
[QUOTE]
Stock car AF ratio is around 12-12.5 in late vtec range.
14.7 is high but not that bad in low rev and flat road.
#47
If it's before the cat, it will be safer to increase it a bit more. At those rpm and driving, your car should be ok. There not much load for much if any detonation.
The other option is to wait for the tuner and don't drive the car any more. You have done enough aldready. Let sean break it in, a bit more, on the dyno.
The other option is to wait for the tuner and don't drive the car any more. You have done enough aldready. Let sean break it in, a bit more, on the dyno.
#48
Originally Posted by honda9krpm,Apr 28 2005, 12:16 PM
If it's before the cat, it will be safer to increase it a bit more. At those rpm and driving, your car should be ok. There not much load for much if any detonation.
The other option is to wait for the tuner and don't drive the car any more. You have done enough aldready. Let sean break it in, a bit more, on the dyno.
The other option is to wait for the tuner and don't drive the car any more. You have done enough aldready. Let sean break it in, a bit more, on the dyno.
#49
it doesn't take long to break the engine in on the dyno Juan
you can run the car at high speed and vary the load on the dyno
just a couple of 15 mins of high speed session will do
Good luck mate
you can run the car at high speed and vary the load on the dyno
just a couple of 15 mins of high speed session will do
Good luck mate