Brake Summary and Questions
05-23-2001, 10:03 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 1,731
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have been reading the old threads regarding improving the braking system, for both street and track. Does this seem like accurate information to everyone? And could one of the experts throw in comments to fill in the blanks?
1) Switch OEM pads to Porterfield R4S pads when they wear out. These pads will not damage the rotor, but may be noisier and create significantly more dust than the OEM pads. This will improve brake fade.
2) Replace OEM DOT3 brake fluid with DOT4 (definitely NOT DOT5) to decrease boiling of fluid when brakes get hot. This will cut the mushiness felt in the pedal after multiple hard stops. What is the best way to drain the old fluid? Does use of DOT4 really void the warranty on the brake system?
3) Replace existing rubber lines with stainless steel brake lines to improve breaking performance and modulation. The stock lines expand under pressure as they get older, but work fine when new. Is DOT approval important with SS lines? Does the whip test have any validity in real life?
4) If you have the cash, upgrade the rotors to lighter versions. Drilling and slotting is not recommended due to increased cracking, correct? Bulletproof Automotive is the only company making brake ducts for the front, and no one makes ducts for the rear?
5) If you have lots of cash, you can swap out the calipers for lighter versions, as well. The number of pistons is not necessarily significant; the total piston area is what matters.
#1,2,3 are necessary for those who want to do track days regularly or run autox. #4 and 5 are nice to have, but are mainly for the serious racers. Big brake systems usually decrease brake performance compared to the stock system.
Thanks for any input,
Tanq
1) Switch OEM pads to Porterfield R4S pads when they wear out. These pads will not damage the rotor, but may be noisier and create significantly more dust than the OEM pads. This will improve brake fade.
2) Replace OEM DOT3 brake fluid with DOT4 (definitely NOT DOT5) to decrease boiling of fluid when brakes get hot. This will cut the mushiness felt in the pedal after multiple hard stops. What is the best way to drain the old fluid? Does use of DOT4 really void the warranty on the brake system?
3) Replace existing rubber lines with stainless steel brake lines to improve breaking performance and modulation. The stock lines expand under pressure as they get older, but work fine when new. Is DOT approval important with SS lines? Does the whip test have any validity in real life?
4) If you have the cash, upgrade the rotors to lighter versions. Drilling and slotting is not recommended due to increased cracking, correct? Bulletproof Automotive is the only company making brake ducts for the front, and no one makes ducts for the rear?
5) If you have lots of cash, you can swap out the calipers for lighter versions, as well. The number of pistons is not necessarily significant; the total piston area is what matters.
#1,2,3 are necessary for those who want to do track days regularly or run autox. #4 and 5 are nice to have, but are mainly for the serious racers. Big brake systems usually decrease brake performance compared to the stock system.
Thanks for any input,
Tanq
05-23-2001, 10:24 AM
#2
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1. Good idea
2. Yes, use DOT 4.0 or 5.1 fluid. I use Motul Racing 600 (available from King Motorsports). Buy a set of speedbleeders (www.speedbleeders.com) to flush the system.
3. Good idea, however, SS lines are not legal for stock class autox, if that is your intention.
4. Brake ducts are important, but also take you out of stock racing classes. Several people, including myself, have "home-made ducts systems. Mine was fabricated by King Motorsports.
New rotors and calipers are good, but the stock system is just fine with the changes above.
2. Yes, use DOT 4.0 or 5.1 fluid. I use Motul Racing 600 (available from King Motorsports). Buy a set of speedbleeders (www.speedbleeders.com) to flush the system.
3. Good idea, however, SS lines are not legal for stock class autox, if that is your intention.
4. Brake ducts are important, but also take you out of stock racing classes. Several people, including myself, have "home-made ducts systems. Mine was fabricated by King Motorsports.
New rotors and calipers are good, but the stock system is just fine with the changes above.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vanabc
Vancouver BC S2000 Owners
2
03-15-2010 01:26 AM