Brake Rotor Removal
#11
now heres the question, do you need to put those phillips screws back in? To save headaches later. I put mine back in just incase but did use anti-sieze to make life easier later. Seems to me that the screws are unnecessary because the lugs would serve the same purpose when the wheel is on.
#12
Moderator
I would without a doubt re-use the screws.
The theory behind them:
-Hold rotor on during assembly line.
-Locator...keeps the rotor in timing with the hub, for corrosion reasons. If you are out of time, and there is rust, you'll get a pulsing brake rotor.
-stud protection....keeps the rotor from wearing into the sides of the studs.
The theory behind them:
-Hold rotor on during assembly line.
-Locator...keeps the rotor in timing with the hub, for corrosion reasons. If you are out of time, and there is rust, you'll get a pulsing brake rotor.
-stud protection....keeps the rotor from wearing into the sides of the studs.
#13
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Originally Posted by s2k_redhead,Jan 24 2007, 12:07 PM
Although this isn't exactly a detailed DIY for brake rotor removal and replacement, can the mods add this into the DIY FAQ sticky? It has some pretty important tips that will make the process more successful!
In the Helm's manual, there's also a step that says, "Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively."
Maybe that's not important if you're replacing the rotors, but do people find it difficult to pull the rotor off the hub?
In the Helm's manual, there's also a step that says, "Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the disc to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively."
Maybe that's not important if you're replacing the rotors, but do people find it difficult to pull the rotor off the hub?
Erich
#14
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the only way i managed to get those screws out was to put a good fitting screwdriver in there and hammer the back of it a couple of times to impact it... after that they came out no problem.
#15
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Originally Posted by blackout,Jan 24 2007, 11:41 AM
now heres the question, do you need to put those phillips screws back in?
#16
when i replaced the rotors in my old integra, it was a pain in the ass to remove the two rusted screws that hold the rotor in place, even with an impact driver
i didnt bother getting new screws cause think about it, your wheels and lug nuts are holding it in place anyways, those screws are only there to hold the rotors in place on the assembly line
i didnt bother getting new screws cause think about it, your wheels and lug nuts are holding it in place anyways, those screws are only there to hold the rotors in place on the assembly line
#17
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I bought a cheapo impact from Harbor freight. I've taken all my rotors off twice with no problems at all. It's more in the method. Most are too timid with the thing.
#18
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Originally Posted by blackout,Jan 24 2007, 02:41 PM
now heres the question, do you need to put those phillips screws back in?
Just be sure you put them in with a screw driver, do not use the impact driver to put them back in.
#19
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Originally Posted by Ubetit,Jan 25 2007, 10:49 AM
I bought a cheapo impact from Harbor freight. I've taken all my rotors off twice with no problems at all.
#20
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Doug, there's a difference between saying you can put them back in, you should put them back in, or you must put them back in.
Clearly it is not true that you must put them back in. Clearly it is true that you can put them back in.
Now if you have any evidence that you should put them back in, feel free to post it.
Clearly it is not true that you must put them back in. Clearly it is true that you can put them back in.
Now if you have any evidence that you should put them back in, feel free to post it.
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