mikegarrison

IIRC, the red grease was high temp rubber grease, and I used it on the piston seal and the dust boot. The orange grease was for the slide pins. The clear grease was good old shin-etsu. i used it on the slide pin boots.

FF2Skip

Talked to Ganley Honda and their techs do not use the "clear." But Barry Bonds does.

I never thought to coat the outsides of the boots. :idea:

FF2Skip

Got the first one done. I can see how subsequent ones will be easier. Thank you everyone for your patience and help.


BTW, I cheated... I had an extra set of hands.

FF2Skip

Quick update:

I only rebuilt the pass. front and added grease to the all the slide pins, correcting placement as necessary. Bled brakes. Also cam eto realize that I had not lined up the cylinder/pad pin on the passenger rear. Not sure if that's how the gave the car back to me or not. Either way, I was hoping that that might have contributed in some way to my problem.

Drove the car yesterday and still had the pads excessively dragging and causing an imprint on the rotors... both fronts. I drove home last night and immediately threw the car up on the jack and removed the pads from the rt front, but it was too late. Imprint.

Is it possible that if one seal is bad, it can cause a leakdown for the entire system? I also ordered new SS brake lines. The ones that are on there now have multiple slits in the passenger side lines. It appears to be only through the plastic sheathing. My guess is that they let the calpier hang during the winter time while working on it(car delivered to them unable to even roll).

TubeDriver

Skip,
When you bleed the brakes are you getting clean flow of brake fluid? Each corner is relatively independent from each other.

1) How is brake pedal feel? If you push the pedel to the bottom a few times and hold it down and than it settles even more that probably means you have a bad brake booster.

If the body shop left your car sitting without brake fluid/open lines for a while, air will get into the lines and possibly the booster as well. This is extremely corrrosive over time and will ruin the booster.

That would be my guess, I can't see any reason for multipe corners going bad at the same time, but all corners are connected to the same booster. Also, if the lines were removed from the car, and left off without a really good flush, the insides get all crappy/corroded. My guess is that you need new lines, possible the booster and a couple of COMPLETE flushes. Just pick up the Valvoline Synpower DOT3/4 synthetic fluid. It comes in hugh bottles for around $5 and you can get it anywere. It is also pretty good stuff, I use in even at the track.

FF2Skip

The problem seems to be only on the fronts.

I had already done a complete flush once... until the color changed. Pedal pressure feels good actually. Then again, that might be because the pads are already making pretty good contact. As for the lines, I believe they still had the calipers attached.


I'd like to bring up what we talked about on Saturday. When you put your piston back into the caliper, you had a bear of a time... mucho pressure required. When I put mine back in, it went it rather easily, but would not come back out. I had zero fluid left in the caliper before reinstalling. Should there be an inordinate amount of pressure required for reinstallation? I can't see why if there is no fluid to cause the back pressure.

TubeDriver

Skip,
I have beeen working primarily on the rear calipers. The rear piston is a screw in/out type while the front caliper piston is a straight in/out design.

I guess a couple things come to mind:

1) Did anything pop off and roll away from you when the piston was removed?

2) I would think that if something major was missing, you would be losing fluid. But I gather you are not losing any fluid so the system is sealed and you have a firm pedal and no problems braking.

3) If the pads are rubbing the rotors, the temp will shoot up causing the fluid to expand and cause the brake pads to be even more likely to rub the rotors.

4) Could the rotors be bent/warped enough to cause rubbing? Have you switched rotors yet?

5) In general, this sounds like a sticky piston or pins but I know you have rebuilt/lubed them.

6) If the wheel bearing are gone, you may have enough play to cause pad/rotor interference. Or if the wheel spindles are bent. Twisted caliper support bracket. This is likely to occur only after impact in an accident. Requires replacing the caliper braket and perhaps the caliper assembly.

7) To check your brake booster, a) turn off car b) pump brake pedal a few times till it is firma and hold down c) turn on car D) if pedal does not move at all your booster is crapped out.

8) It is the the piston seal (not the dust boot) that makes the piston retract when you lift off the pedal. Did you replace this?


This is all I can think of right now. Hope it helps.