Legal Bill

Everyone knows the real action is at the Vintage meets!

Skip, I hope you get this figured out. FWIW, it does sound like something that will be solved with a rebuild and new seals. In fact, after getting them hot and stuck like that, a replacement of the seals is probably a good idea anyway. I have to assume that the prolonged contact with the rotors must also transfer heat to the caliper piston.

FF2Skip

Again, thanks to all. Harry, I wrote my last before seeing yours. Thank you for the detailed steps.

Maybe because it's late for me, but when I removed the dust cover with my newly purchased hemostat(I didn't see the post telling me to use multiple ones), I did not see a separate seal ring come out with it. So I tried to remove the entire piston. I can only get it to come out halfway. Still no seal. How do I get the cylinder to come out? Do I need to reattach the brake line and step on the brakes?

and going to

RACER

You need compressed air to remove the piston. Use a wooden block to catch the piston. Make sure you keep your fingers clear of the piston as it comes out. The piston will exit the cylinder with great force.

FF2Skip

I do have a compressor, however, going slowly has a certain appeal to me.

FF2Skip

Check.

TubeDriver

Skip you can also just keep pumping the brakes with no pads inserted. The piston will shoot out (ask me how I know).

I'm glad you found out where the pins had gone, that is a pretty common thing (I think the same gremlin that hides socks also switchs caliper pins).

Also , the piston seal is insrted inside the caliper body and you can only see it once the piston is removed. When the piston is out, look in to the caliper body, pull the seal out, replace (cover with the orange grease that comes with your caliper rebuild kit), cover the boot with this same grease. Also make sure to flush the caliper out with some brake fluid. Use the red grease (it comes with the rebuild kit) on the pins (pull them, put some red grease inside, cover pin with grease and reinsert. You may as well replace the pin boots as well since the kit should come with them.

Oh yea, bleed the hell out of the system after all this.

FF2Skip

You definitely don't want anything in the way when the piston comes flying out! Holy poop!

Pete, I followed the manual and the writing on each packet of grease(one so far). I did the slide pins last night. The orange stuff said it was for the slide pins. The red says "Location: Dust cover of caliper, cup of master cylinder." The clear packet is Shin-Etsu. In the manual, it has "rubber grease" drawn as a clear grease gun.Considering that I use the Shin-Etsu on the soft/hardtop seals, I am assuming that the piston seal gets the Shin-Etsu. The colored-in grease gun drawing refers to silicon grease but says it's for seal and pin grease.

I hate when the manual and directions on parts differ.

TubeDriver

I may be getting my grease colors mixed up as I am saying this from memory. I think you are right (orange on pins) but I used the red stuff on the seal and dust boot. I think it is a hi temp rubber grease?

RACER

I would just use the grease that came with the re-build kit

TubeDriver

The rebuild kit comes with 3 different types of grease and VERY unclear directions about what goes were.