S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Brake pad adhering to rotor

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Old 05-11-2005, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by FF2Skip,May 11 2005, 08:24 AM
Could the plungers cause the problem?
What's a "plunger"? If you are talking about the two slide pins that allow the caliper to center over the rotor, then yes they could cause the problem. If it was the inside pad or both pads that did that, I would guess the piston got stuck. If it was just the outside pad, I that would point to the slide pins. Since the picture shows it being the outside pad, that's my guess.
Old 05-11-2005, 07:41 AM
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Thanks, Mike. for the quick response. Now that you mention inside/outside helping to determine cause, I'm going to see if I uploaded a pic of the rear inside pad/rotor... same side. The passenger side became intimate with a guardrail last fall(track off). I'm hoping I don't have to replace the entire caliper(s). I have an extra rear rt one, but no rt front.
Old 05-11-2005, 08:35 AM
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Well, you may have saved my day, Harry. I did not know that there was a difference between the pins. I just put them back in arbitrarily. I will be sure to inspect them when I get the car back from the paint shop tonight or tomorrow. Can I assume they are marked as such, "A" and "B?"

Shims were new and straight. The pad in question was hard to remove from the caliper, but I thought it was because the two had become one. When I reinstalled stock rotors and only slightly used oem pads to get to the shop, I did not notice any bends, kinks, or otherwise in the retainers.
Old 05-11-2005, 08:51 AM
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And just to add one more anecdotal tidbit - I once experienced a similar problem with the pad not retracting properly. It turned out to be the piston seal being degraded from track use. Note that the dust boots don't have anything to do with caliper function, they just help keep contamination out from between the piston and the bore. So, even if the dust boots were in good shape, that doesn't mean the piston seal is. Attend to the sliding pin concern, check/replace the piston seals and your calipers should function normally again.
Old 05-11-2005, 08:58 AM
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Did you sand the pad before you installing it back? Why did you use OEM pads at a track event?
Old 05-11-2005, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by hecash,May 11 2005, 09:08 AM
A-Pin and B-Pin
These are the sealed pins that slide within the cavities on the outboard side of the mounting bracket. They are bolted to the caliper body by two 8M x 12mm hex head bolts. These are not identical pins. They have different part numbers. When you rebuild, you need to insure that the A-Pin is used on the top and that the B-Pin is on the bottom, that you've thoroughly cleaned out the cavities in the mounting bracket and that they are fully refilled with high-temp grease.
How do you tell the difference between them?
Old 05-11-2005, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by hecash,May 11 2005, 09:28 AM
I think that he said that he did not run it at the track, rather, he drove it with the "Spring Fling Gang." That's a tough crowd of Senior Citizens.
DOH. My bad.
Old 05-11-2005, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BroInTheKnow,May 11 2005, 10:58 AM
Did you sand the pad before you installing it back? Why did you use OEM pads at a track event?
the stock pads are used without problems by many who do auto-x events. the stock pads are actually quite good, but under constant lapping at a track you can get some fade.
Old 05-11-2005, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mikegarrison,May 11 2005, 12:30 PM
How do you tell the difference between them?
I asked this earlier as well. I've got the car in the garage tonight to pull the brakes. I'll report back later if I find any definitive answer.

BTW, I re-checked the rotor and a very small part of the pad on the inside of the rotor also adhered itself... much smaller than the front.
Old 05-11-2005, 04:22 PM
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On track, stock rotors and Panther pads. Street- oem pads and bling-bling rotors.


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