Brake pad adhering to rotor
#11
Registered User
Originally Posted by FF2Skip,May 11 2005, 08:24 AM
Could the plungers cause the problem?
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks, Mike. for the quick response. Now that you mention inside/outside helping to determine cause, I'm going to see if I uploaded a pic of the rear inside pad/rotor... same side. The passenger side became intimate with a guardrail last fall(track off). I'm hoping I don't have to replace the entire caliper(s). I have an extra rear rt one, but no rt front.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well, you may have saved my day, Harry. I did not know that there was a difference between the pins. I just put them back in arbitrarily. I will be sure to inspect them when I get the car back from the paint shop tonight or tomorrow. Can I assume they are marked as such, "A" and "B?"
Shims were new and straight. The pad in question was hard to remove from the caliper, but I thought it was because the two had become one. When I reinstalled stock rotors and only slightly used oem pads to get to the shop, I did not notice any bends, kinks, or otherwise in the retainers.
Shims were new and straight. The pad in question was hard to remove from the caliper, but I thought it was because the two had become one. When I reinstalled stock rotors and only slightly used oem pads to get to the shop, I did not notice any bends, kinks, or otherwise in the retainers.
#14
Registered User
And just to add one more anecdotal tidbit - I once experienced a similar problem with the pad not retracting properly. It turned out to be the piston seal being degraded from track use. Note that the dust boots don't have anything to do with caliper function, they just help keep contamination out from between the piston and the bore. So, even if the dust boots were in good shape, that doesn't mean the piston seal is. Attend to the sliding pin concern, check/replace the piston seals and your calipers should function normally again.
#16
Registered User
Originally Posted by hecash,May 11 2005, 09:08 AM
A-Pin and B-Pin
These are the sealed pins that slide within the cavities on the outboard side of the mounting bracket. They are bolted to the caliper body by two 8M x 12mm hex head bolts. These are not identical pins. They have different part numbers. When you rebuild, you need to insure that the A-Pin is used on the top and that the B-Pin is on the bottom, that you've thoroughly cleaned out the cavities in the mounting bracket and that they are fully refilled with high-temp grease.
These are the sealed pins that slide within the cavities on the outboard side of the mounting bracket. They are bolted to the caliper body by two 8M x 12mm hex head bolts. These are not identical pins. They have different part numbers. When you rebuild, you need to insure that the A-Pin is used on the top and that the B-Pin is on the bottom, that you've thoroughly cleaned out the cavities in the mounting bracket and that they are fully refilled with high-temp grease.
#17
Originally Posted by hecash,May 11 2005, 09:28 AM
I think that he said that he did not run it at the track, rather, he drove it with the "Spring Fling Gang." That's a tough crowd of Senior Citizens.
#18
Registered User
Originally Posted by BroInTheKnow,May 11 2005, 10:58 AM
Did you sand the pad before you installing it back? Why did you use OEM pads at a track event?
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by mikegarrison,May 11 2005, 12:30 PM
How do you tell the difference between them?
BTW, I re-checked the rotor and a very small part of the pad on the inside of the rotor also adhered itself... much smaller than the front.