GDPzS2000

alright, my brake lights don't work, the top one on the trunk, and the rings around the rear light. all other lights work. so i checked the fuses and sure enough the brake light fuse 10 was popped. put the spare fuse 10 in and it blew right wheni put it in(a spark jumped out). everytime i put a new fuse it sparks and pops, so someone told me it was a short, a wire is touching metal. uhmm is there any way to know what wire could be causing the short or do i have to check each and everyone.

stuff that happend lately to my car( anything that might cause a short):

- motor blew, so a new one is in (electrical stuff could of been tampered with?)
- my horn blew as well ( i kept my detachable steering wheel on in hot weather and when i got home the horn was on full blast like someone had their hand on the horn button and wouldnt let go. i was trying to disconnect the battery to shut the horn up but before i could pop the hood, the horn got softer and softer and now it doesnt work.)

thanks for your help

geoff

GDPzS2000

ok its definately something with the horn. i took off all the wires from the horn to the steering wheel, and the fuse did not blow. then i pressed the lock button two times on the keyless entry(the horn usually honks) and i heard a pop from the engine bay, checked the fuse and it blew. will a new horn fix this?

mikegarrison

Tracing a short is tedious work. And it sounds like your whole electrical system is messed up.

But to answer your question somewhat, you don't need to keep blowing fuses. You can use a multimeter to test for resistance between the wires and the frame of the car. Any wire with no resistance is grounded. You can use an electrical wiring diagram to figure out which wires are supposed to be grounded and which are not.

MacGyver

The horn and brakelights run off of the same fuse. Before even reading your second post I would have heavily suggested looking at the horn wiring.